« 2019. #1 (145)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2019, 1 (145), 221—235

UDK 391.4(477.86-11):746.4.048]”19/20″:069.51
DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2019.01.221

TRADITIONAL KNITTED AND LACE CLOTHES COMPLEMENTS IN POKUTTIA REGION IN XX th — AT THE BEGINNING OF XXI CENTURY: LOCAL TYPOLOGICAL AND ARTISTIC PECULIARITIES

KOZAKEVYCH Olena

ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8742-4337

Candidate of Sciences in Art Studies,

Senior Researcher

Folk Art Department

Institute of Ethnology of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine.

15, Svobody Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine

Contacts: e-mail: kozakevych.olena@gmail.com

Abstract. The local and typological peculiarities of clothes complements (hand and footwear) of XX th — at the beginning of XXI century in the context of Pokuttia traditional clothes are considered. Author’s field research in Pukuttia region during 2012—2018, particularly, artifacts from museum and private collections form the basis of typology analysis, manufacturing techniques and decorative features. New information on mittens, «narakvytsi» and «shtutsy» from Pokuttia and Hutsul frontiers and certain locuses of Pokuttia obtained from respondents during the author’s workshops is introduced in the scientific circulation. The existence of products during the outlined time period according to historical, sociocultural and artistic factors has been determined. Clothes complements manufacturing centers and their distinctive nature from the viewpoint of ethnical and artistic parameters are ascertained. The main technological and artistic characteristics of the artifacts are analyzed.

Keywords: dress, clothes complements, mittens, «narakvytsi», «shtutsy», knitting, crocheting, nitting under the form, ethnic and contact pattern, local peculiarities, mutual influence, tradition, ornament, decoration, center.

Received 7.02.2019

REFERENCES

DAIFO. F. 2. Op. 6. Od. save 624 [in Polish].
DAIFO. F. 2. Op. 2. Od. save 338 [in Polish].
DAIFO. F. 2. Op. 2. Od. save 716 [in Polish].
DAIFO. F. 203. Op. 1. Od. save 969 [in Polish].
DAIFO. F. 262. Op. 1. Od. save 591 [in Polish].
DAIFO. F. 262. Op. 1. Od. save 333 [in Polish].
DAIFO. F. 263. Op. 1. Od. save 348 [in Polish].
DAIFO. F. R. 845. Op. 2. Od. save 25 [in Russia].
DAIFO. F. R. 845. Op. 2. Od. save 22 [in Russia].
V-2427/1-2.
V-2426/1-2.
ЕP-20286.
ЕP-20297.
ЕP-20295.
ЕP-20291.
ЕP-20270.
ЕP-3569.
ЕP-20233.
ЕP-20939.
ІFКМ о-3635.
ІFКМо-2574.
КМГ-15802.
КМH-15296.
КМH-15801.
КМH-15800.
КМH-14108.
КМH-20827.
КМH-11469.
КМH-2689.
КМH-9981.
Kozakevych, O., & Pavliuk, S. (Ed.). (2007). Narakvytsi. Mala entsyklopediia ukrains’koho narodoznavstva (pp. 373—374). L’viv: IN NAN Ukrainy [in Ukranian].
Kozakevych, O., & Pavliuk, S. (Ed.). (2007). Kholiavky. Mala entsyklopediia ukrains’koho narodoznavstva (p. 644). L’viv: IN NAN Ukrainy [in Ukranian].
Kozakevych, O., & Pavliuk, S. (Ed.). (2007). Kapchury v’iazani. Mala entsyklopediia ukrains’koho narodoznavstva (p. 259). L’viv: IN NAN Ukrainy [in Ukranian].
Kozakevych, O. (2014). Typolohiia ukrains’kykh narodnykh v’iazanykh ta merezhyvnykh vyrobiv XIX — pochatku XXI stolittia: vbrannia. The Ethnology Notebooks, 6 (120), 1403—1419 [in Ukranian].
Kozakevych, O. (2017). Lokal’ni osoblyvosti pokuts’kykh narodnykh v’iazanykh ta merezhyvnykh vyrobiv kintsia XIX — pochatku XXI stolittia: ochipky. The Ethnology Notebooks, 1 (133), 211—232 [in Ukranian].
Kozakevych, O. (2011). Ukrains’ki tradytsijni v’iazani vyroby kintsia XIX—XX st.: lokal’ni osoblyvosti (za materialamy zakhidnykh oblastej). Zapysky Naukovoho tovarystva im. T.H. Shevchenka (T. CCLXI (261). L’viv, 503—524 [in Ukranian].
Kozakevych, O. (2010). Oseredky v’iazal’noho vyrobnytstva na Ivano-Frankivschyni (za materialamy kintsia XIX—XX st.). Naukovi zapysky (Vyp. 11—12, pp. 60—68). Ivano-Frankivs’k: Lileia-NV [in Ukranian].
Kozakevych, O. (2010). Oseredky trykotazhnoho vyrobnytstva: Ivano-Frankivschyna. Mystetstvoznavstvo’10 (pp. 79—92) [in Ukranian].
Kozakevych, O. (2013). Profesijnyj trykotazh v Halychyni kintsia ХІХ — pershoi tretyny ХХ stolittia: oseredky, asortyment, khudozhni osoblyvosti. The Ethnology Notebooks, 2 (110), 289—305 [in Ukranian].
Nykorak, O. (2004). Ukrains’ka narodna tkanyna ХІХ—ХХ st. Typolohiia, lokalizatsiia, khudozhni osoblyvosti (Ch. I). Inter’ierni tkanyny (za materialamy zakhidnykh oblastej Ukrainy). L’viv: Afisha [in Ukranian].
Olijnyk, O. (2017). Narodne tkatstvo Pokuttia: tradytsiia i suchasnist’. The Ethnology Notebooks, 2 (134), 251—274 [in Ukranian].

Read»

Our authors
Maternity ritualism by volhynians in publications of the second half XIX to the early XXI cc.
In the article have been considered some basic landmarks for fixing and publication of ethnographic materials on the maternity rites of Volhynia with analytical study in ritual elements, their kinds and territories of origin. The article has also raised a problem of gaps in studies of maternity rites of Ukrainian historio-ethnographic Volhynia.
Read »

Daily bread baking of ukrainians in the south-western ethnographical region at the late XIX to early XXI cc.
The paper has dealt with analytic study in prescriptions, signs, customs, methods, ways of selection, procurement and some peculiarities in usage of subsidiary means — water, firewood and leaves in bread baking. The final aim of the mentioned actions had been (and still is) selection of the means and ingredients fit, by their characteristics, for the backing of bread. The paper has demonstrated dependence of bread backing subsi­diary means criteria from the folk nutritional standards and world outlook stereotypes as well as from regional social and economic, natural and geographical factors and peculiarities of material culture.
Read »

Traditional folk clothes of velikobychkovsky hutsuly of XIX — the first half of XX century
In the study based upon numerous field materials, literature sources as well as ethnographic, historio-cultural and regional museum collections has been performed complex analysis in traditional folk clothes by Hutzul population of Velyky Bychkiv village in Transcarpathian region. Detailed descriptions of femi­nine and masculine clothing complexes of the mentioned area have been presented. In characterizing of those main attention has been paid to the detail of cut in separate components of dress; cut of feminine shirt has been added as an illustration.
Read »

On field exploration of russian and belarusian ethnologists and etnolinguists in Ukrainian Polisia 1945—1980s
In the study based on a wide range of literary materials have been comprehensively characterised field research in Polisia of Ukraine, performed by Russian and Belarusian ethnologists during 1945—1980s as well as Moscow ethnolinguists and other researchers from ethnologic centres of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus in the course of realization of Ethnolinguistic Atlas of Polisia program. Particular attention has been paid to geography, methods, themes and research results of scientific projects.
Read »