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« 2022. # 5 (167)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2022. № 5 (167), 1147—1163

UDK [391:[746.1.016.4:687.38]](477.8+474.5)

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2022.05.1147

PATTERNED WOVEN SASHESOF WESTERN UKRAINE AND LITHUANIA: TECHNIQUES, ORNAMENTATION, FUNCTIONS

NYKORAK Оlena

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-0887-8929
  • Doctor in Art Studies, Professor,
  • Leading Researcher,
  • Ethnology Institute of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,
  • Folk Art Department,
  • 15, Svoboda Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: olenanykorak@gmail.com

HERUS Lyudmyla

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5931-3816
  • Doctor in History Sciences, Сandidate of Аrts (Ph. D),
  • Senior Researcher,
  • Ethnology Institute of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,
  • Folk Art Department,
  • 15, Svoboda Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: ludmilagerus@gmail.com

KUTSYR Tetiana

Abstract. Based on the results of an interdisciplinary research project «Unique Technologies of Ethnographic Textile: Experience of Preservation in Western Ukraine and Lithuania» features of making, decoration and using of folk dress, traditions of Western Ukrainian and Lithuanian patterned woven sashes are studied. Within this research, ethnographic textiles appear not only as a phenomenon of material culture, but also as an object of the intangible cultural heritage of two countries, which has absorbed the technological knowledge, aesthetic ideas, and worldview positions of its creators. The commonalities between the items of both countries emphasize their long-standing historical ties, and the differences are the variability of the development of Ukrainian and Lithuanian ethnic artistic traditions.

The article purpose is to analyze the main making techniques, basic motifs and schemes, artistic and stylistic features of ornamental compositions, practical and ritual significance of patterned woven sashes in Western Ukraine and Lithuania.

The object of the research is preserved in museums items and reproduced by modern craftsmen and craftswomen, and the subject is the technological, artistic, and stylistic features of traditional woven Western Ukrainian and Lithuanian sashes, their significance in folk clothing, and their use in customs and rituals.

Structural analysis, modeling, and reconstruction methods were used to study sash-making techniques; art history and formal analysis were used to identify the characteristic features of the items decoration and its components; the comparative-historical method made it possible to analyze the similarities and differences between the Western Ukrainian and Lithuanian sashes, as well as the features of their use from the end of the XIX to the beginning of the XXI centuries.

The source base of the scientific article became: professional publications of Ukrainian and Lithuanian scholars in the field of traditional weaving, in particular, the making technology and ornamentation features of folk sashes; material items from the collections of Ukrainian and Lithuanian museums; practical trainings on the making of traditional sashes, carried out during the implementation of the project; materials of the authors’ long-term field research in Ukraine and Lithuania.

In the article, various ways of weaving Ukrainian and Lithuanian sashes were analyzed, and the regional and local uniqueness of their structure, texture, motifs, ornamentation, variability of composition schemes, and color scheme were revealed. Universal features of Ukrainian items ornamentation in historical and ethnographic regions of the western region of Ukraine and similar Lithuanian items are noted.

Keywords: Ukraine, Lithuania, weaving, sashes, technique, ornament, ritual, tradition.

Received 7.10.2022

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