Archive
The Ethnology Notebooks. 2021. #6 (162). P. 1309-1558 DOI... read »
The Ethnology Notebooks. 2021. # 1 (151). P. 1–252 DOI... read »
2013 year, issue 3 read »
2013 year, issue 5 read »

« 2025. # 2 (182)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2024. № 2 (182), 259—280

UDK [39:745/746.02.04](477=161.2)

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/

UKRAINIAN MODERN ETHNOGRAPHIC TEXTILE: ARTISTIC TRADITION DEVELOPMENT

NYKORAK Оlena

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-0887-8929
  • Doctor in Art Studies, Professor, NAS Corresponding Member
  • Leading Researcher, Ethnology Institute of the National Academy
  • of Sciences of Ukraine, Folk Art Department,
  • 15, Svoboda Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: olenanykorak@gmail.com

HERUS Lyudmyla

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5931-3816
  • Doctor in History Sciences, Senior Researcher,
  • Ethnology Institute of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,
  • Folk Art Department,
  • 15, Svoboda Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: ludmilagerus@gmail.com

KUTSYR Tetiana

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6522-0640
  • Candidate of Art Studies (Ph.D.), Researcher,
  • Ethnology Institute of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,
  • Folk Art Department,
  • 15, Svoboda Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: sonechko_29@ukr.net

Abstract. Ukrainian ethnographic textiles are represented today by artistically expressive decorative items of clothing, interior, household, and ceremonial purposes. The study of modern directions in the application of the traditions of Ukrainian ethnographic textiles contributes to a deeper understanding of artistic processes of the present and the identification of problems with them. Analysis of this artistic direction enables a deeper forecasting of this creative sphere.

The article`s purpose is to record the current state of Ukrainian ethnographic textiles, explain the artistic tradition forms of transmission, the variability of its expression, and changes related to current creative practices.

We distinguished the essential directions of the ethnographic textile tradition`s functioning. The first is characterized by the continuous use of tradition in the making and decorating of textile items for various purposes during the 20th and early 21st centuries. There are Yavoriv and Kosmach villages of Ivano-Frankivsk region, Klembivka village of Vinnytsia region, and Reshetylivka town of Poltava region. 

The next is the recovery of traditional art centers like Krupove village of Rivne region, Horodok town of Lviv region. Another direction is the meticulous reproduction of ancient items. It aims to popularize national heritage and visually emphasize national identity. In this way, «Volyn Legends» and Magda Dzvin workshops work. In addition, many modern folk artisans and artists use creative interpretations of Ukrainian tradition.

Keywords: ethnographic textile, art tradition, weaving, embroidery, pattern, ornament.

Received 8.04.2025

REFERENCES

  • Text of the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. Retrieved from: https://ich.unesco.org/en/convention (Last accessed: 23.03.2025).
  • Vovk, Kh. (1928). Studies in Ukrainian Ethnography and Anthropology. Praha: Ukrainskyi hromadskyi vydavnychyi fond [in Ukrainian].
  • Mirchuk, I., & Shapovalov, M. (Ed.). (2003). Directions of Ukrainian Culture. Munich [in Ukrainian].
  • Krypiakevych, I., Radzykevych, V., & Holubets, M. (1937). History of Ukrainian Culture. Lviv: Vydavnytstvo Ivana Tyktora [in Ukrainian].
  • Sydorovych, S. (1979). Artistic Fabric of the Western Regions of the Ukrainian SSR. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
  • Nykorak, O. (2004). The Ukrainian Traditional Folk Cloths of XIX and XX cc. Interior Cloths (Based on Materials from Ukrainian Western Regions) (Part I.). Lviv: Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Hurhula, I. (1966). Folk Art of the Ukrainian Western Regions. Kyiv: Mystetstvo [in Ukrainian].
  • Mateiko, K.I. (1977). Ukrainian Folk Clothing. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
  • Nikolaeva, T. (1996). History of Ukrainian Costume. Kyiv: Lybid [in Ukrainian].
  • Bilan, M.S., & Stelmashchuk, H.H. (2000). Ukrainian Clothing. Lviv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
  • Ivasiuta, M.K., & Kravchuk, L.T. (Eds.) (1961). Ukrainian Folk Embroideries. Lviv Region. Kyiv: Vydavnytstvo Akademii nauk Ukrainskoi RSR [in Ukrainian].
  • Zakharchuk-Chuhai, R.V. (1988). Ukrainian Folk Embroidery. Western Regions of USSR. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
  • Kara-Vasylieva, T.V. (2008). History of Ukrainian Embroidery. Kyiv: Mystetstvo [in Ukrainian].
  • Stankevych, M. (2020). Ethnoaesthetics. Philosophy of Folk Art. Lviv: Spilka krytykiv ta istorykiv mystetstva [in Ukrainian].
  • Nykorak, O. (2023). The Ukrainian Traditional Folk Clothes of XIX and XX cc. Clothing Fabrics (Based on Materials from Ukrainian Western Regions) (Part II). Lviv: Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Herus, L. (2021). «With Bread The Song is Sweeter and the House is Prettier»: Axiological Aspect of Ritual Bread of Ukrainians. Lviv: Ethnology Institute of the NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Fedorchuk, O. (2021). The Tradition of Beaded Decoration in the Ukrainian Folk Costume (based on the Material from Western Regions of Ukraine). Lviv: Ethnology Institute of the NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Bolyk, O. (2020). Wooden Sacred Artefacts (Based on Ukraine`s Western Regions). Lviv: Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Ivashkiv, H. (2007). Decor of Ukrainian Folk Ceramics of the 16th — First Half of the 20th Centuries. Lviv: Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Motyl, R. (2011). Ukrainian Smoked Ceramics of the 1916th — First Half of the 21st Centuries. History. Typology. Artistic Features. Lviv: Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Kolupaieva, A. (2006). Ukrainian Tiles of the 14th — Early 20th Centuries. History. Typology. Iconography. Ensemble. Lviv: Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Shpak, O.D. (2006). Ukrainian Folk Engraving of the 17th—19th Centuries. Lviv: Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Romaniv-Triska, O., & Stankevych, M. (Eds.) (2008). Folk Icon on Glass: Album. Kyiv: Instytut kolektsionerstva pry NTSh [in Ukrainian].
  • Kozakevych, O. (2004). Knitting as a Species of Ukrainian Decorative and Applied Art. Art Studies, 3, 99—113 [in Ukrainian].
  • Oliinyk, O.V. (2017). The Folk Weaving of Pokuttia: Tradition and Modernity. The Ethnology Notebooks, 2 (134). 251—274. DOI: https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2017.02.251 [in Ukrainian].
  • Butnyk-Siverskyi, B.S. (1966). Ukrainian Soviet Folk Art. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
  • Shcherbii, H. (1978). Ukrainian Traditional Clothing and Modern Modeling. Folk Art and Ethnography, 4, 79—81 [in Ukrainian].
  • Kara-Vasyleva, T., & Chehusova, Z. (2005). Ukrainian Decorative Art in the 20th Century. In Search of the «Great Style». Kyiv: Lybid [in Ukrainian].
  • (1926). Folk Costume. Nova Khata, 4, 17—18 [in Ukrainian].
  • (1926). Folk Costume. Nova Khata, 5, 17 [in Ukrainian].
  • Mateiko, K.I., & Sydorovych, S.I. (1963). Using Traditional Clothing Elements in the Modern Garment. Folk Art and Ethnography, 2, 10—20 [in Ukrainian].
  • Boiko, V.M. (1965). Elements of Ukrainian Folk Clothing in Modern Knitwear. Folk Art and Ethnography, 5, 64—69 [in Ukrainian].
  • Nikolaieva, T.V., Haiova, I.L., Nikolaieva, T.I., & Hladka, V.A. (2020). Modern Costume Design Based on the Associative Transformations of the Folk Clothes Tectonic Structures. Art and Design, 1 (09), 154—165. DOI: 10.30857/2617-0272.2020.1.12 [in Ukrainian].
  • Kostiukova, V.M. (2015). Embroidery Art of Kyivshchyna through the XXth to Early XXIst Centuries (Typology, Stylistics, Traditions and Modern Transformation): Extended abstract of PhD dissertation for the candidate’s degree qualification in Art, in the specialty 20.00.01 (Theory and History of Culture). Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
  • Fedyna, O. (2006). Study of Ukrainian Folk Costume of the Late 19th and Early 20th Centuries as a Source of Interpretation in Modern Clothing Design (Methodological Aspect). Folk Art Museums and National Culture: Collection of Scientific Works (Pp. 238—241). Kyiv: Zlatohraf [in Ukrainian].
  • Tkanko, Z. (2018). Ethno-Renaissance in the Ukrainian Fashion: Time and Cultural Dimensions. Bulletin of LNAA, 38, 85—92 [in Ukrainian].
  • Oliinyk, M.V. (2017). Ukrainian Clothing in the System of Urban Culture of Kyiv (Second Half of the 19th — Beginning of the 21st Centuries). Kyiv: IASFSH [in Ukrainian].
  • Lagoda, O.N., & Martynova, O.M. (2008). Traditional Embroidery of the Cherkassy Region in the Modern Planning of Suit. Bulletin of Kharkiv State Academy of Design and Arts, 11, 87—93 [in Ukrainian].
  • Krotova, T.F., & Hardabkhadze, I.A. (2010). Modern Trends in Clothing Design and Their Reflection in the Educational Process. Bulletin of KNUKiM. Series in Arts, 23, 33—40 [in Ukrainian].
  • Kutsyr, T.V. (2016). Opillya Clothing Decor as a Source for the Development of Modern Clothing Design. Globalization/Europeanization and the Development of National Slavic Cultures. Proceedings of the International Scientific Conference Dedicated to the Day of Slavic Writing and Culture (Pp. 173—177). Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
  • Ivanevych, L.A. (2021). Traditional Clothing of Ukrainians of Podillia Regions (Second Half of the 19th — Beginning of the 21st Century): History, Classification, Constructive-Artistic and Regional-Local Features. Khmelnytskyi: FOP Melnyk A.A. [in Ukrainian].
  • Tsymbala, L. (2020). National Traditions Translation in Modern Ukrainian Design Practices. Proceedings of the International Scientific and Practical Conference «Current Problems of Modern Design» (Vol. 1, pp. 95—99). Kyiv: KNUTD [in Ukrainian].
  • Bernstein, B. (1990). Art History and Art Culture. Collection of Articles. Tallinn: Kunst [in Estonian].
  • Kotsiubynskyi, M. (1975). Items of Peasant Women from Podillia at an Exhibition in Chicago. In: Works: in Seven vol. (Vol. 4, pp. 16—18). Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
  • Kolisnyk, V.P., Dziuba, I.M., & Zhukovskyi, A.I. ets. (Eds.). (2013). Klembivka. Encyclopedia of Modern Ukraine. Kyiv: Instytut entsyklopedychnykh doslidzhen NAN Ukrainy. Retrieved from: https://esu.com.ua/article-7592 (Last accessed: 23.03.2025) [in Ukrainian].
  • White on White. Big Ukrainian Encyclopedia. Retrieved from: https://vue.gov.ua/Білим по білому (Last accessed: 23.03.2025) [in Ukrainian].
  • Kara-Vasyleva, T.V. (1983). Poltava Folk Embroidery. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
  • Baryrieva, I. The Technology of Embroidery «white on white» in the Reshetylivka town, Reshetylivka district, Poltava region. Retrieved from: https://authenticukraine.com.ua/blog/tehnologia-vikonanna-visivki-bilim-po-bilomu-dopracovanij (Last accessed: 23.03.2025) [in Ukrainian].
  • National List of Elements of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Ukraine. Retrieved from: https://mcsc.gov.ua/kulturna-spadshchyna/natsionalnyy-perelik-elementiv-nematerialnoi-kulturnoi-spadshchyny-ukrainy/ (Last accessed: 23.03.2025) [in Ukrainian].
  • Chekhovych, S. (1950—1960). Embroiderers of the Horodok District (unpublished article). Manuscripts Department Archives of the V. Stefanyk Library of the National Library of Ukraine. F. 140. Op. 15/l [in Ukrainian].
  • Kulchytska, О., Kost, L., & Lenko, N. (Eds.). (2018). Folk Clothing of the Ukrainian Western Regions (from the Collection of the Andrey Sheptytsky National Museum in Lviv. Album-catalog. Lviv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
  • Hurhula, I., & Chekhovych, S. (1959). Folk Artisants. Lviv: Knyzhkovo-zhurnalne vydavnytstvo [in Ukrainian].
  • Kalyniak, M. (2004). Ukrainian Embroidery. Modern interpretation: Album. Lviv: Ukrainski tekhnolohii [in Ukrainian].
  • Kulynych-Stakhurska, O. (1996). The Art of Ukrainian Embroidery. Techniques and Technology. Lviv: Misioner [in Ukrainian].
  • Nykorak, O. (2020). Radyvyliv Weaving Center: Reconstruction of Decor Traditions. The Ethnology Notebooks, 4, 781—796. DOI: https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2020.04.781 [in Ukrainian].
  • Ivan Honchar Museum. Embroidery and Cutting Patterns. Retrieved from: https://honchar.org.ua/to-learn (Last accessed: 23.03.2025) [in Ukrainian].
  • (2019). Embroidery kit. Authentic shirt of Kosiv region. Project «Popularization of the Historical and Cultural Heritage of the Hutsul Region Outside the Ethnoregion, through the Preservation of Clothing Traditions». Kosiv [in Ukrainian].
  • Havryliv, N. (2022). Sokal Embroidery. From the Museum of Folk Architecture and Everyday Life in Lviv Funds. Lviv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
  • Chypurko, V. (2023). Blackbloom. Sokal. Ornaments. Cut and ornaments of Nadbuzhanian shirts. Lviv: Dzhezva [in Ukrainian].
  • Shirts of Kropyvnytskyi Region. Retrieved from: https://shop.babayelka.kr.ua/albom-zi-skhemamy-vyshyvok-sorochky-kropyvnychchyny/ (Last accessed: 23.03.2025) [in Ukrainian].
  • Herus, L., Kumpikaite, E., & Nenartaviciute, E. (2023). Towel Functions: Comparative Analysis of Ukrainian and Lithuanian Traditions. The Ethnology Notebooks, 3 (171), 777—791 [in Ukrainian].
  • Zdoroveha, N.I. (1974). Essays on Folk Wedding Rituals in Ukraine. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
Our authors
Oksana Sapeliak. Senior Research Fellow, Ph.D. in... read »
Ulana Movna. Senior Research Fellow, Ph.D. in History. read »
Olena Fedorchuk. Senior Research Fellow, Ph.D. read »
Boliuk Oleh - kandidate of sciences in arts, Doctoral... read »
Boikos’ pandemonium: categories of evil deceased
In the article have been presented some research-work on peculiarities of Boikos’ traditional demonological notions as for so-called evil deceased; on the basis of field records and ethnological literary sources quite a number of scum categories have been defined as well as essential habits, modes of behavior and functions of these personages of people’s demonology.
Read »

Wax candle as ukrainian Christmas and epiphany ritualistic text
For the first time in native ethnology the article has brought some results of special study in sign functionality of a wax candle under the context of Ukrainian Christmas and Epiphany ritualistic text (ritualism of Christmas Eve, New Year, Epiphany Eve and Feast of Epiphany). The study has stated extremely high semiotic position of a wax candle as projection of Sun, mediator between the spheres of sacral and prophane elements, symbolic analogue of human existence, apotropy, cultural symbol re-establishing borders of acculturated space.
Read »

On bessarabian and moldavian ukrainians in the studies of historical ethnography
The article has thrown some light upon a sum of scientific findings got during XIX to XXI cc. in historio-ethnographic studies of Bessarabia and Moldavian Ukrainians. In the pre­sent paper has been given author’s answer to the problem of lacking progress as for the numerous themes concerning Ukrainians. State and achievements of the research-works in Ukrainians’ material and spiritual culture by the scientists of Moldavia and Ukraine through the years of independence has been exposed.
Read »

Traditional folk clothes of velikobychkovsky hutsuly of XIX — the first half of XX century
In the study based upon numerous field materials, literature sources as well as ethnographic, historio-cultural and regional museum collections has been performed complex analysis in traditional folk clothes by Hutzul population of Velyky Bychkiv village in Transcarpathian region. Detailed descriptions of femi­nine and masculine clothing complexes of the mentioned area have been presented. In characterizing of those main attention has been paid to the detail of cut in separate components of dress; cut of feminine shirt has been added as an illustration.
Read »