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The Ethnology Notebooks. 2017, 5 (137), 1113—1125

UDK 391­055.2(477.87)”18/19″

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2017.05.1113

TRADITIONAL SHOULDER AND UPPER CLOTHING OF DOLYNIANS OF TRANSCARPATHIAN ХІХ — FIRST HALF OF ХХ CENTURY

Kotsan Vasyl Vasiliovych, Ph.D in History,

associate professor at the Department of Ukraine History

at the Uzhhorod National University,

Director of the Transcarpathian Museum of Folk Architecture and Everyday Life,

Kapitulna Str., 33a, Uzhgorod, 88000, Ukraine

Contacts: Tel. (03122) 36352; e-mail: vasilkotsan@ukr.net

Abstract. The article is devoted to research of traditional shoulder and upper clothing of dolynians of Transcarpathian XIX — the first half of XX item. On the basis of the field, archived and literary sources, museum collections a few important aspects are analysed from the probed theme: material and methods of making (cutting out), artistic features (finishing), methods of dressing and functional setting (workaday, festive, ceremonial) of shoulder and upper clothing. Artistic expressiveness to both workday and festive, embroidery, factory ribbons, machine guy­sutures, decorating a bead, gave a dress. The study of the functional setting of that or other element enabled to find out his simplicity, festivity and symbolic.

Keywords: shoulder and upper clothing, sleeveles, gunya, jacket, cutting out, нomescreen fabric, wool, factory matter, finishing, embroidery, factory ribbons, machine guy­sutures.

Received 17.07.2017

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