Archive
The Ethnology Notebooks. 2023. № 4 (172). P. 825-1150 DOI... read »
«Narodoznavchi Zoshyty» 2008 year, issue 3-4 read »
The Ethnology Notebooks. 2022. № 6 (168). С. 1245-1498 DOI... read »
2013 year, issue 6 read »

« 2018. #2 (140)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2018, 2 (140), 372—384.

UDK 391.4:687.38.03](477.85/.87)”19/20”

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2018.02.372

Received 20.02.2018

THE TRADITION OF BELTS` WEAVING ON AT HUTSULSHCHYNA IN THE XX — THE BEGINNING OF XXI CENTURY

ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8742-4337

Kozakevych Olena Romanivna, Candidate of Art History, Researcher

of the Department of Folk Art

of the Institute of Ethnography of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine.

Svobody Avenue 15, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine.

Contacts: e-mail kozakevych.olena@gmail.com

Abstrakt. An attempt to explore the traditions of weaving and decora­ting hutsuls belts of the XX-th — beginning of the XXI-th century is made. Attention is focused on the unique and universal features of «mesh weaving» technology. The basis of the study of methods of wear, types, technological methods of production and artistic features of belts — author’s field research (2004—2017) and the processing of museum collections of different levels. The main stages of the existence of traditional woven belts in the Hutsulshchyna are determined; the centers of their production, local differences, and the names of the masters were recorded. One of the main practical results of the studios is the fixation of ancient and modern models of mesh weaving technology from the bearers of the tradition and the author’s attempt to reconstruct mesh webbed belts.

Keywords: folk clothes, belt, origins, Hutsulshchyna, comparative aspect, local features, weaving, mesh structure, colo­ring, decoration, versatility, uniqueness, tradition, reconstruction, mistress.

REFERENCES

Haiuk, I. (2012). Iliustrovana entsyklopediia virmens’koi kul’tury v Ukraini. Z katalohizovanym dodatkom pereliku pam’iatok virmens’koi kul’tury v muzeiakh ta zapovidnykakh. L’viv : Afisha  [in Ukrainian].
Zdoroveha,  N. (1868). Pletinnia chy brannia?  Narodna tvorchist’ ta etnohrafiia, 2, 68—69 [in Ukrainian].
Kajndl’, R. (2000). Hutsuly: ikh zhyttia, zvychai ta narodni perekazy. Chernivtsi: Molodyj bukovynets’ [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2017). Lokal’ni osoblyvosti narodnoho odiahu «kol’orovykh» sil Nadvirnianschyny XX — pochatku XXI stolittia: porivnial’nyj aspekt (na pol’ovykh materialakh). Ukrains’kyj fenomen Hutsul’schyny: natsional’nyj ta ievropejs’kyj konteksty. Kolomyia: Vik [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2006). Kosivschyna — oseredok v’iazannia XX st. In Pratsi naukovoho tovarystva im. Shevchenka. Kraieznavstvo. (T. II. 270—280). Kosiv [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych,  O. (2011). Ukrains’ki tradytsijni v’iazani vyroby kintsia XIX —XX st.: lokal’ni osoblyvosti (za materialamy zakhidnykh oblastej). Zapysky Naukovoho tovarystva im. T.H. Shevchenka. (T. CCLXI (261). 503—524). Pratsi komisii obrazotvorchoho ta uzhytkovoho mystetstva.  L’viv [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2014). Typolohiia ukrains’kykh narodnykh v’iazanykh ta merezhyvnykh vyrobiv XIX — pochatku XXI stolittia: vbrannia.  The Ethnology Notebooks, 6 (120), 1403—1419 [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych O. Brannia. In Pavliuk, S. (Ed.). Mala entsyklopediia ukrains’koho narodoznavstva. (pp. 65—66). L’viv : Afisha [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2014). Ukrains’ki narodni merezhyvni ta v’iazani vyroby kintsia XIX — pochatku XXI stolittia: Istoriohrafiia pytannia. The Ethnology Notebooks, 5 (119), 951—966 [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2002). Vplyv sotsial’no-politychnykh iavysch na rozvytok ta formuvannia ukrains’koi mody (v konteksti istorii zakhidnoievropejs’koho kostiuma). The Ethnology Notebooks, 1—2, 146—153 [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2013). Merezhyvni narodni vyroby na Volyni ta Polissi kintsia XIX— XX st.: rehional’ni osoblyvosti. Materialy Vseukrains’koi naukovo-etnohrafichnoi konferentsii «Mynule i suchasne Volyni j Polissia: narodna kul’tura i muzei», prysviachenoi 80-richchiu vid dnia narodzhennia Oleksy Oshurkevycha. Naukovyj zbirnyk. Luts’k [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2015). Tradytsijni v’iazani ta merezhyvni vyroby na Bojkivschyni i Pidhir’i kintsia XIX — pochatku XXI stolittia: vbrannia (za materialamy mystetstvoznavchykh ekspedytsij 2005—2006-kh rr.). The Ethnology Notebooks,  5 (125), 1127—1149 [in Ukrainian].
Sydorovych, S. (1979). Khudozhnia tkanyna Zakhidnykh oblastej URSR. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
Charewiczowa, L. (1929). Lwowskie organizacje zawodowe za czasуw Polski Pzedrozbiorowej. Lwуw [In Polish].
Falkowski, J. (1938). Pуіnocno-wschodnie pogranicze Huculszczyzny. Prace Etnograficzne. Lwуw [In Polish].
Falkowski,  J. (1937). Zachodnie pogranicze Huculszczyzny. Dolinami Prutu, Bystrzycy Nadwуrniaсskiej, Bystrzycy Soіotwiсskiej і Јomnicy.  Lwуw: Towarzystwo Ludoznawcze [In Polish].
Kopernicki, I. (1889). O Gуralach Ruskich w Galicyi. Zarys etnograficzny wкdіug spostrzeџeс w podrуџy, odbytej w koсcu lata 1888 r. Krakуw [In Polish].
Loziсski, W. (1902). Patrycyat i mieszczaсstwo lwowskie w XVI i XVII wieku. Lwуw [In Polish].
Ukraintsi Pravoberezhzhia v natsional’nykh kostiumakh: foto 1870-kh rokiv. Foto: Tetiana Yatsechko-Blazhenko.  Retrieved from: http://tyzhden.ua/Gal­le­ry/ (Last accessed: 17.01.2018)

Read»

Our authors
Olena Nykorak. Senior Researcher, Doctor of Arts read »
Ulana Movna. Senior Research Fellow, Ph.D. in History. read »
Yaroslav Taras. Head of Department, Professor, Doctor... read »
Olena Fedorchuk. Senior Research Fellow, Ph.D. read »
Traditional folk clothes of velikobychkovsky hutsuly of XIX — the first half of XX century
In the study based upon numerous field materials, literature sources as well as ethnographic, historio-cultural and regional museum collections has been performed complex analysis in traditional folk clothes by Hutzul population of Velyky Bychkiv village in Transcarpathian region. Detailed descriptions of femi­nine and masculine clothing complexes of the mentioned area have been presented. In characterizing of those main attention has been paid to the detail of cut in separate components of dress; cut of feminine shirt has been added as an illustration.
Read »

Wax candle as ukrainian Christmas and epiphany ritualistic text
For the first time in native ethnology the article has brought some results of special study in sign functionality of a wax candle under the context of Ukrainian Christmas and Epiphany ritualistic text (ritualism of Christmas Eve, New Year, Epiphany Eve and Feast of Epiphany). The study has stated extremely high semiotic position of a wax candle as projection of Sun, mediator between the spheres of sacral and prophane elements, symbolic analogue of human existence, apotropy, cultural symbol re-establishing borders of acculturated space.
Read »

Boikos’ pandemonium: categories of evil deceased
In the article have been presented some research-work on peculiarities of Boikos’ traditional demonological notions as for so-called evil deceased; on the basis of field records and ethnological literary sources quite a number of scum categories have been defined as well as essential habits, modes of behavior and functions of these personages of people’s demonology.
Read »

Daily bread baking of ukrainians in the south-western ethnographical region at the late XIX to early XXI cc.
The paper has dealt with analytic study in prescriptions, signs, customs, methods, ways of selection, procurement and some peculiarities in usage of subsidiary means — water, firewood and leaves in bread baking. The final aim of the mentioned actions had been (and still is) selection of the means and ingredients fit, by their characteristics, for the backing of bread. The paper has demonstrated dependence of bread backing subsi­diary means criteria from the folk nutritional standards and world outlook stereotypes as well as from regional social and economic, natural and geographical factors and peculiarities of material culture.
Read »