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« 2020. № 4 (154)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2020. № 4 (154), 841—853

UDK 391:687.38](091)”18/19”

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2020.04.841

TRADITION OF WOVEN SPRANG BELTS: TECHNIQUE, ETHOLOCAL FEATURES, DECOR

KOZAKEVYCH Olena

  • ORCID ID: http://orcid.org/0000-0002-8742-4337
  • candidate of arts (Ph. D)
  • researcher, Folk Art Department,
  • Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine,
  • 15, Svobody ave,79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: kozakevych.olena@gmail.com

Abstract. Ethnolocal and artistic features of woven sprang belts as an important component of Ukrainian clothing and fabrics are studied. The lack of characteristics of sprang technique, outlining the most noticeable features of the decor, common and different ways of wearing, manufacturing and decoration determined the relevance and novelty of the paper.

Paper purpose — to identify exclusive parameters of sprang technique and technological methods of manufacturing netting belts, to trace the formation of artistic features in the context of socio-cultural and ethno-artistic factors of the late XIX — beginning of XX centuries. The research object is woven sprang belts in the Ukrainian folk clothing complexes, and the subject  — unique and universal parameters of their decor. Research techniques to be used are the principle of a systematic approach and comprehensive research. The comparative historical method is applied for study the subject of research and reconstruction method — for research the sprang technique. The art analysis in the study of ethnolocal characteristics and the decor of netting belts is tested. The source base for writing the paper is a scientific research on the chosen topics, author’s field research (2002—2019) and a processing museum and private collections (Kyiv, Lviv, Kolomyia, Rivne, Lutsk etc.).

Results. In the paper technological features of textile sprang technique used in the manufacture sprang belts in Ukraine were characterized. The main centers as well as the tradition transformation of sprang belts in the context of sociocultural and artistic factors during the XX century are determined. Unique and universal features of a dйcor are find out, and the most characteristic colour combinations and ornamental compositions are revealed. Based on the processed items, we can say that this textile technique has become widespread almost throughout Ukraine. However, the changes have taken place in folk clothing and textiles, mainly since the middle of the XX century, have led to the levelling the tradition of wearing sprang belts in everyday life and, consequently, their weaving. It was led to extinction of sprang as weaving technique, but not for its complete destruction. In some areas it was continued, but rather in the context of traditions and rituals or the restoration of folk traditions.

Conclusion. The study of modern practices manufacturing components of folk clothing has shown a lively interest to reconstructions the belts from Polissya, Volyn, Vinnytsia or Stari Kuty since the beginning of the XXI century. This process take place at the level of continuation the local traditions within specify centers (Stari Kuty, Berezovy) or reproduction the items by individual craftswomen or creative teams (regardless of their ethnographic location).

Keywords: belt, technique, decor, sprang, netting structure, decoration, tradition, local features.

Received 1.06.2020

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