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« 2021. # 5 (161)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2021. № 5 (161), 1150—1166

UDK 391+677.076.62(477)

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2021.05.1150

EMBROIDERY ON UKRAINIAN CLOTHES: THE PROBLEM OF ORIGINS

BALUSHOK Vasyl

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1362-8270
  • PhD in History, Senior Research Fellow,
  • Maksym Rylskyi Institute of Art Studies, Folklore Studies and Ethnology,
  • National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine
  • 4, Hrushevskoho str., 01001, Kyiv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: grigras@i.ua

OLIYNYK Maryna

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2946-8243
  • PhD in History, Research Fellow,
  • Maksym Rylskyi Institute of Art Studies, Folklore Studies and Ethnology,
  • National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine
  • 4, Hrushevskoho str., 01001, Kyiv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: marina.oliynik@gmail.com

Abstract. Introduction. Genesis of Ukrainian traditional Clothing Embroidery cannot be considered as adequately studied subject. Due to the lack of acceptable Sources, it’s Prehistory since have multiple Gaps, and the Statements made in Literature do not rely on the solid factual Framework. Study Purpose: The purpose of this Study is to outline hypothetical directions of Ukrainian traditional Clothing Embroidery during the earliest stages by considering Timeline, circumstances, Factors and Drivers of its development process. Study Methods are based on study of ornament genesis and evolution regularities, as well as the effects of the cultural borrowing mechanisms described by F. Boas, A. Kroeber, L. Sternberg and S. Arutyunov. Results. General regularities of ornamental genesis suggest that the traditional clothing embroidery of Ukrainian ancestors originates from the pictograms that carry a ritual and philosophical meaning accessible for entire community and embedded into original decoration patterns. Furthermore, currently the exact evolution patterns, i. e., from fabric ornaments to embroidery, or otherwise, still remain unclear. Based on the similarities of ornament origins on various items (including clothing embroidery), it is suggested to track its genesis on the cultural artifacts following two major directions of Ukrainian national culture development: Slavic (superstrate) and Sarmatian (substrate). It is also important to consider various ethnic additions (adstrat) and influences by Classical and the Oriental civilizations. There are clear evidences of clothing embroidery household use incidence among the nations directly involved in the Ukrainian ethno genesis — the Sarmatians (burial grounds, I century AD), the Huns (records by Priscus of Panium, V century AD), the Slavs during Rus’ development age (burial sites in Chorna Mohyla and Shestovytsia, X century AD); moreover, new evidences keep emerging, including, but not limited to statues from the Martynivka Treasure, VII century AD that are still a topic of active discussions. Conclusion. The history of Ukrainian traditional clothing embroidery supposedly dates back to the pre-historic period, probably the Bronze Age — the early Iron Age. Its evolution up to Kyivan Rus’ era may be generally tracked after I century AD, including the relevant evidences from V, VII (somewhat hypothetical) and Х centuries AD

Keywords: embroidery, ornament, pattern, borrowing, archeological culture.

Received 27.09.2021

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