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« 2024. # 3 (177)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2024. № 3 (177), 641—650

UDK 930.2:391-055.2(477.83-25=161.2=162.1=19)”15/16″

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2024.03.641

CLOTHES OF LVIV CITIZENS. END OF THE 16TH — FIRST HALF OF THE 17TH CENTURY: EXTERNAL INFLUENCES AND STABILITY OF TRADITION

ZAMOSTIANYK Iryna

  • ORCID ID https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4696-350X
  • Candidate of historical sciences, Acting Academic Secretary
  • of the Institute of Ethnology
  • The National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,
  • 15, Svobody Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: Zamostianyk@nas.gov.ua

Abstract. Introduction. One of the important components of material culture is clothing. Exterior influences and preservation of the traditions of those ethnic communities that lived in the city are best traced in the clothing of the Lviv bourgeoisie during the late Middle Ages and early modern times. This study is relevant because despite the various aspects of city life, clothing of the Lviv bourgeoisie remains unattended by historians. At the same time, сitizens’ clothing is an element of everyday culture that leads to understanding of ethno-cultural processes in the city.

Problem Statement. The purpose of the article is to analyze the clothing of the Lviv townspeople at the end of the 16th — the first half of the 17th century. We will do this in the context of the functioning of different ethno-cultural communities and international connections of the city through the processing of archival documents and introduce them to scientific use.

Purpose. The object of the research is the clothing of Lviv townspeople, the subject is the components of clothing in their reflection in a complex of written sources.

Methods. The methodological basis was the research based on the principle of historicism, scientific objectivity and systematicity. We used analysis as the selected scientific method, data synthesis, description. Special scientific methods were also applied: comparative-historical, typological, historical-reconstructive. Сharacterization of Lviv townspeople’s clothing as a manifestation of the multiethnic composition of the urban environment was made thanks to a comparative-historical method. The typological method has raised a large number of previously unanswered questions. In addition, cross-cultural analysis was applied. Such research methods have made it possible to fully solve the tasks we have set out.

Results. For the first time in the article a historical and ethnographic study of women’s clothing was carried out on the example of Lviv, a city dating from the 16th century was the largest in Ukraine. The article shows the specifics of local features of the clothing of the townspeople of the late 16th — first half of the 17th c. in the context of multiethnic Lviv. New sources on this issue have been brought to scientific circulation. In particular, court records, wills and property descriptions. The author was able to find out that the clothing of the townspeople was distinguished by its variety in shape, purpose and color. The influence of the fashion trends of the countries of Western Europe and the East on the attire of the townspeople of Lviv is analyzed in the article. The author also examined the effects of the suburban peasant element on the clothing of the Lviv townspeople.

Keywords: Material Culture, Lviv, the Ukrainians, the Poles, the Armenians, ethnicity, testaments women’s clothes, tissue, litnyk, shirt, rantuch.

Received 5.06.2024

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