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The Ethnology Notebooks. 2020. № 2 (152), 395—409

UDK 391.4-055.2:930.2]”16/17″(477)

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2020.02.395

NAMES OF THIGHS CLOTHES BY WRITTEN SOURCES OF THE XVI—XVIII CENTURIES

KOSMINA Oksana

ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8382-7438

Candidate of historical sciences,

Doctor of Philosophy, Researcher fellow of department

of Historical Ethnology of the Institute of Ethnology

The National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,

15, Svobody Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine

Contacts: e-mail: kosminaoksana@gmail.com

Abstract. On the basis of written sources of the XVI—XVIII centuries, the article describes the terms denoting different types of female and male thigh clothing.

The relevance of the article is due to the writing of a terminology dictionary of clothing terms, which are recorded in written sources from X to XVIII century. To date, the publication of such a dictionary is an important source of research for many studies in the field of historical and art studies. It is also relevant enough for the now popular reconstruction movement, for the work of artists in the preparation of filming historical films, the creation of images of theatrical theatrical art. Knowledge about certain items of clothing will help to eliminate disputes about certain items and time of their appearance in the clothing culture of Ukrainians.

The purpose of the publication. On the basis of written references in sources from the XVI to XVIII century to give an idea of the change of some items of clothing and the constancy of others. Which in turn gives us the opportunity to reasonably speak about the change of fashion, about inethnic borrowings, about the sustainability of traditions. The first mentions in written sources tell us about the existence of a certain element of clothing, and its etymology makes it possible to trace the ways in which the types of clothing indicated by them have got into the material culture of Ukrainians. From the descriptions of certain items, we will also learn about the fabrics from which the garment was made, its cut and decoration, color. Mentions of one thigh outfit together with other types of shoulder wear give us an idea of the ensemble of the suit as a whole. Some of the items in the thigh wear radically change the preferences of a particular community, and from the status of exotic inoethnic borrowings become a national symbol or ethnic marker.

The result of such sources of research was a list of such terms of the thigh clothing as: zapaska, plachta, apron, skirt, sajan, andarak, chusty in women’s clothing and portky, ubranie, pants, charovary, pludry in men’s clothing.

Keywords: terminology, clothing, fabric, cut.

Received 16.04.2020

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