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The Ethnology Notebooks. 2023. № 6 (174), 1333—1347

UDK 391(=161.2=172:[746.1:677.024](477.8+474.5)”18/20″

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2023.06.1333

TECHNOLOGIES FOR MAKING LITHUANIAN TRADITIONAL PATTERNED WOVEN APRONS

NYKORAK Оlena

HERUS Lyudmyla

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5931-3816
  • Doctor in History Sciences, Сandidate of Аrt Studies (Ph.D.),
  • Leading Researcher, Head of Department,
  • Ethnology Institute of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,
  • Folk Art Department,
  • 15, Svoboda Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: ludmilagerus@gmail.com

KUTSYR Tetiana

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6522-0640
  • Candidate of Art Studies (Ph.D.)
  • Researcher,
  • Ethnology Institute of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,
  • Folk Art Department,
  • 15, Svoboda Avenue, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: sonechko_29@ukr.net

Abstract. Introduction. The article was written based on the results of the Ukrainian-Lithuanian project «Unique technologies of ethnographic textiles: conservation experience in western Ukraine and Lithuania». The article is devoted to the main features of the traditional Lithuanian aprons making. The study of Lithuanian aprons was carried out during the realization of the second stage of the Ukrainian-Lithuanian interdisciplinary scientific research project «Unique Technologies of Ethnographic Textile: Experience of Preservation in Western Ukraine and Lithuania» in 2023. To investigate this issue, scientists made a trip to the village of Šešupės Vilkaviškis District, Kaunas County, where certified traditional weaving craftswoman Janina Blažukienė works. She makes aprons according to the technologies that were widespread in Lithuania at the end of the XIX — in the first half of the XX century. The relevance of the publication is due to the insufficient coverage of Lithuanian traditional woven under waist wear in Ukrainian-language literature, as well as the possibility of applying the acquired knowledge to preserve and develop weaving traditions in Ukraine.

The article’s purpose consists of an analysis of the making principles of Lithuanian traditional patterned aprons, the originality of their decor, and ornamental patterns. Special attention is paid to Suvalkija aprons — a unique phenomenon of Lithuanian weaving.

The object of the study is the traditional patterned woven aprons of all historical and geographical regions of Lithuania: Aukštaitija, Žemaitija, Dzūkija, Lithuania Minor, special attention is paid to monuments from Suvalkija, and the subject of the study is the technological parameters of aprons` making, features of their decor and ornamental patterns.

During the study of Lithuanian traditional aprons, the methods of empirical (observation, experiment, description) and theoretical investigation were applied — comparative-historical, art study, and structural analysis, as well as the method of systematization.

Results. During the realization of the second stage of the project in 2023, Ukrainian and Lithuanian scientists conducted a study on Lithuanian traditional patterned aprons. The aprons of Suvalkija are considered to be the most original ornamentally and colorfully saturated. Their colorful motifs were made using the technique of float techniques on the warp of weaving. In their decor, the lily motif is often used in a variety of mirror-symmetrical and asymmetrical configurations.

Conclusion. Traditional Lithuanian weaving masters, one of them is J. Blažukiene, painstakingly reproduce the main decoration principles of the Lithuanian historical and ethnographic regions aprons. In the preservation and development of traditional technologies for Lithuanian ethnographic textiles techniques, state support, in particular, scholarships, contests, etc., is of great importance. The conducted study on the preservation of unique weaving technologies showed the effectiveness of such measures in Lithuania, which suggests that the introduction of similar methods of stimulation will have a positive result in Ukraine as well.

Keywords: Ukraine, Lithuania, weaving, traditional clo-thing, aprons, study, project.

Received 8.11.2023

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