Archive

« 2020. # 6 (156)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2020. # 6 (156), 1287—1296

УДК 72/75:910.4

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2020.06.1287

Olena SOM-SERDYUKOVA

  • ORCID ID: http://orcid.org/0000-0001-5196-545X
  • Associate Professor, Doctor of Philosophy (Art Science),
  • Doctoral Student the Department of Design and Technology
  • of the Kyiv National University of Culture and Arts,
  • 36, E. Konovaltsya Str., 01133, Kyiv, Ukraine,
  • email: olenasom@gmail.com

BUNAD — NATIONAL COSTUME OF NORWAY: TRADITION AND CONTEMPORARY

Bunad, the national costume of Norway, is an important attribute, a kind of symbol and element of identification. This topic has never been covered in domestic art history. Therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the phenomenon of Norwegian culture is quite relevant in the Ukrainian context. The purpose of the article is to consider the essence of the phenomenon of bunad, which is a prominent example of dialogue between tradition and contemporary in the context of Norwegian society. The topic of the article is a study of the revival of interest in folk clothing among the local intelligentsia in the nineteenth century and an analysis of the factors of the spread of the tradition of bunads in the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. The bunad is the object of our exploration, and the subject is the evolution of attitudes toward the bunad over the last 200 years. The research methodology is based on theoretical analysis, systematization and generalization, historical review and observations of the author. G. Harborg’s ascetic activity on fixation, research and popularization of bunades is covered. The peculiarity of its modern form is considered, which is a design solution and, at the same time, keeps the man-made tradition unchanged. Attention is drawn to the parallels in the regional development of bunads and language dialects. The focus is on their diversity and high artistic and aesthetic quality. The problem of professional control over their quality has been raised, which is part of the activities of the National Institute of Bandages and Folk Costume. The activity of the institution is studied and the main directions of work are evaluated, such as: fundamentas studies, creation of reconstructions and access with the recommendations bunad usage. It is noted that the phenomenon of bunades, gives the opportunity to make exciting journeys through Norwegian culture in time and space. This creates a reason to touch the aspect where the exclusive characteristic of the bunad is connected to the cultural landscape of Norway.

Keywords: bunad, national costume, folk clothes, design, handmade, tradition, cultural landscape, Norway.

REFERENCES

  • Garborg, H. (2016). Norwegian bunad. Oslo: Viderforlaget [in Norwegian].
  • Skavhaug, K. (1978). Our beautiful bunads. Oslo: Hjemennes forlags A/S [in Norwegian].
  • Pedersen, K-A. (2013). Folk costume became a bunad. Oslo: Cappelen Damm Faktum [in Norwegian].
  • Durån, L. (2014). Popular national costumes. Oslo: Duranpublishing [in Norwegian].
  • Andersen, T. (2013). Sew the bunad. Oslo: Ornforlag [in Norwegian].
  • Fossnes, H. (Ed.). (2019). Cap. An important part of the bunad. (Magasinet Bunad). Skien: Smøyg Forlag [in Norwegian].
  • Scheel, E.W. (2001). Norwegian costumes. Stretchers and bunads: living traditions. Oslo: N.W. Damm & Søn [in Norwegian].
  • Scheel, E.W., & Ødegården, I.H. (1997). Bunad- embroidery. Oslo: Boksenteret forlag [in Norwegian].
  • Skårdal Tobiasson, T. (2019). Folk costume in our time. Oslo: Orfeus [in Norwegian].
  • Noss, A. (2012). Women’s clothing in Sogn. Example of a western Norwegian traditional dress code. Oslo: Novus forlag [in Norwegian].
  • Hovland, B. (2014). Folk costumes and bunad from Sogn. A journey in time and landscape. Bergen: Skald [in Norwegian].
  • Hol Haugen, B.S. (Ed.). (2006). Norwegian bunad leksikon (Bind I). Oslo: N.W. Damm & Søn [in Norwegian].
  • Hol Haugen, B.S. (Ed.). (2006) Norwegian bunad leksikon (Bind II). Oslo: N.W. Damm & Søn [in Norwegian].
  • Hol Haugen, B.S. (Ed.). (2006). Norwegian bunad leksikon (Bind III). Oslo: N.W. Damm & Søn [in Norwegian].
  • Bunad og folke dress. Retrieved from: https://bunadogfolkedrakt.no/ (Last accessed: 02.11.2020) [in Norwegian].
  • Digitaltmuseum. Retrieved from: https://digitaltmuseum.no/ (Last accessed: 02.11.2020) [in Norwegian].
  • Bryne, A. (2004). They painted Norway. Oslo: Andr­esen & Butenschøs AS.
  • Mohr, V. (2003). Our craftsmanship. Oslo: C. Huitfeldt forlag A.S [in Norwegian].
  • Cold, B. (2010). It’s good to be here. About aesthetics in the environment Trondheim: NTNU [in Norwegian].
  • Eriksen, A. (2009). Museum of cultural history. Oslo: Pax forlag A/S [in Norwegian].
  • Dahl, E., Larsen, E. & Johansen, R. (2000). Akantus. Oslo: Samlaget [in Norwegian].

Read»

Our authors
Wax candle as ukrainian Christmas and epiphany ritualistic text
For the first time in native ethnology the article has brought some results of special study in sign functionality of a wax candle under the context of Ukrainian Christmas and Epiphany ritualistic text (ritualism of Christmas Eve, New Year, Epiphany Eve and Feast of Epiphany). The study has stated extremely high semiotic position of a wax candle as projection of Sun, mediator between the spheres of sacral and prophane elements, symbolic analogue of human existence, apotropy, cultural symbol re-establishing borders of acculturated space.
Read »

On bessarabian and moldavian ukrainians in the studies of historical ethnography
The article has thrown some light upon a sum of scientific findings got during XIX to XXI cc. in historio-ethnographic studies of Bessarabia and Moldavian Ukrainians. In the pre­sent paper has been given author’s answer to the problem of lacking progress as for the numerous themes concerning Ukrainians. State and achievements of the research-works in Ukrainians’ material and spiritual culture by the scientists of Moldavia and Ukraine through the years of independence has been exposed.
Read »

Boikos’ pandemonium: categories of evil deceased
In the article have been presented some research-work on peculiarities of Boikos’ traditional demonological notions as for so-called evil deceased; on the basis of field records and ethnological literary sources quite a number of scum categories have been defined as well as essential habits, modes of behavior and functions of these personages of people’s demonology.
Read »

Traditional folk clothes of velikobychkovsky hutsuly of XIX — the first half of XX century
In the study based upon numerous field materials, literature sources as well as ethnographic, historio-cultural and regional museum collections has been performed complex analysis in traditional folk clothes by Hutzul population of Velyky Bychkiv village in Transcarpathian region. Detailed descriptions of femi­nine and masculine clothing complexes of the mentioned area have been presented. In characterizing of those main attention has been paid to the detail of cut in separate components of dress; cut of feminine shirt has been added as an illustration.
Read »