« 2018. #1 (139)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2018, 1 (139), 254–268

UDK 811.161.2’374’373.46:391.7»09/17»

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2018.01.254

Received 15.12.2017

NAMES OF THE JEWELRY OF XI—XVIII CENTURIES (materials for the terminology dictionary)

Kosmina Oksana, Candidate of Sciences in History,

Senior Researcher

of the Institute of Ethnology of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine.

Svobody Avenue 15,  79000, Lviv, Ukraine.

Contacts: e-mail: ina@mail.lviv.ua

Abstract. The article contains materials devoted to jewelry from the future dictionary on the elements of clothing of the 10—18th centuries. A separate mini-section is devoted for every term known from the written sources, which shows the origin of the name of the decoration, the time of its first fixation in documents, functions and features of use, material and structure of the product.

 Keywords: dictionary, terminology, clothes, jewelry.

REFERENCES

Avtohraf ukrains’koi istorii: IX–XXI st. Materialy do Kataloha vystavky dokumentiv Natsional’noho arkhivnoho fondu Ukrainy. Arkhivy Ukrainy. 2005. № 5–6.
Aktova knyha Zhytomyrs’koho hrods’koho uriadu 1611 roku. Seriia «Pam’iatky ukrains’koi movy. Seriia aktovykh dokumentiv i hramot». Zhytomyr, 2002.
Aktova knyha Zhytomyrs’koho mis’koho uriadu kintsia XVI st. (1582–1588 rr.). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1965.
Akty yzdavaemye Vylenskoj kommyssyeiu dlia razbora drevnykh aktov. T. XXXIV. Akty otnosiaschyesia ko vremeny vojny za Malorossyiu (1654 –1667). Vyl’na, 1909.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 1. Ch. 3. Kyiv, 1863.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 1. Ch. 6. Kyiv, 1876.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 2. Ch. 3. Kyiv, 1868.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 3. Ch. 3. Kyiv, 1876.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 3. Ch. 8. Kyiv, 1909.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 4. Ch. 3. Kyiv, 1914.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 4. Ch. 8. Kyiv, 1907.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 6. Ch. 1. Kyiv, 1883.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 11. Ch. 1. Kyiv, 1904.
Arkhyv Yuho-Zapadnoj Rossyy. T. 12. Ch. 1. Kyiv, 1904.
Arkhiv Kosha Novoi Zaporozhs’koi Sichi: Korpus dokumentiv. 1734–1775 (T. 1). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1998.
Arkhiv Kosha Novoi Zaporozhs’koi Sichi: Korpus dokumentiv. 1734–1775 (T. 3). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 2003.
Arkhiv Kosha Novoi Zaporozhs’koi Sichi: Korpus dokumentiv. 1734–1775 (T. 4). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 2006.
Bagalej, D.I. (1888). Kratkij istoricheskij ocherk torgovli (preimushhestvenno jarmarochnoj) v Har’kovskom krae v XVII–XVIII vekah. Har’kov.
Bilous, N. (2011). Testamenty kyian seredyny XVI – pershoi polovyny XVII stolittia. Kyiv: Prostir.
Bytovaja malorusskaja obstanovka v dokumentah XVII–XVІІІ st. Kievskaja starina. 1887. T. XIX. Oktjabr’.
Vojtiv, H.V. (1995). Nazvy odiahu v pam’iatkakh ukrains’koi movy XIV–XVII st.: avtoreferat dysertatsii na zdobuttia naukovoho stupenia kandydata filolohichnykh nauk. L’viv.
Vojtiv, H.V. (1995). Nazvy odiahu v pam’iatkakh ukrains’koi movy XIV–XVIII st.: dysertatsiia na zdobuttia naukovoho stupenia kandydata filolohichnykh nauk. L’viv.
Vojtiv, H.V. (1985). Nazvy prykras. Ukrains’ka istorychna ta dialektna leksyka. Kyiv: Naukova dumka.
Volyns’ki hramoty XVI st. Seriia «Pam’iatky ukrains’koi movy XVI st. Seriia aktovykh dokumentiv i hramot». Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1995.
Vostokov, A. (1888). Pridanoe P.I. Sheremet’evoj. Kievskaja starina. T. 22. Avgust. (Dokumenty i izvestija).
Vrochyns’ka, H. (2007). Ukrains’ki narodni zhinochi prykrasy XIX – pochatku XX st. Kyiv: Rodovid.
Hajdamats’kyj rukh na Ukraini v XVIII st. Zbirnyk dokumentiv. Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1970.
Galaganovskij famil’nyj arhiv. Kievskaja Starina. 1882. T. 7. № 11. Nojabr’.
Gorbachevskij, N. (1874). Slovar’ drevnego aktovogo jazyka Severo-Zapadnogo kraja i Carstva Pol’s’kogo. Vil’na.
Demchenko, L. (2004). Majnovi rozporiadzhennia volyns’kykh shliakhtychiv za materialamy testamentiv ta reiestriv spadkovoho majna XVI st. Arkhivy Ukrainy. № 1–2.
Dilova i narodno-rozmovna mova XVIII st. (materialy sotennykh kantseliarij i ratush Livoberezhnoi Ukrainy). Seriia «Pam’iatky ukrains’koi movy XVIII st. Seriia aktovykh dokumentiv i hramot». Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1976.
Dilova dokumentatsiia Het’manschyny XVIII st. Pam’iatky polityko-pravovoi kul’-tury Ukrainy. Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1993.
Lazarevskij, O. (Ed.). (1884). Dnevnik general’nogo horunzhego Nikolaja Hanenka (1727–1753). Kievskaja starina. T. 8. № 5. Maj.
Pavlenko, S.O. (Ed.). (2007). Doba het’mana Ivana Mazepy v dokumentakh. Kyiv.
Etymolohichnyj slovnyk ukrains’koi movy (T. 1). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1982.
Etymolohichnyj slovnyk ukrains’koi movy (T. 2). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1985.
Etymolohichnyj slovnyk ukrains’koi movy (T. 3). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1983.
Etymolohichnyj slovnyk ukrains’koi movy (T. 4). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 2003.
Etymolohichnyj slovnyk ukrains’koi movy. (T. 5). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 2006.
Etymolohichnyj slovnyk ukrains’koi movy. (T. 6). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 2012.
Zhizn’ Knjazja Andreja Mihajlovicha Kurbskogo v Litve i na Volyni. Akty, izdavaemye Vremennoju Kommissieju, Vysochajshe uchrezhdennoju pri Kievskom Voennom, Podol’skom i Volynskom general-gubernatore (T. 1). Kiev, 1849.
Tymchenko, Ye. (Ed.). (1932). Istorychnyj slovnyk ukrains’koho iazyka (T. 2). Kharkiv; Kyiv.
Kirsanova, R.M. (1995). Kostjum v russkoj hudozhestvennoj kul’ture 18 – pervoj poloviny 20 vv.: Opyt jenciklopedii. Moskva.
Kniga pozhitkov byvshego chernigovskogo polkovnika Pavla Polubotka i detej ego, Andreja i Jakova Polubotkov, sostavlennaja po ukazu 1724 godu majorom Mihajlom Raevskim i lejb-gvardii serzhantom L’vovym. Chtenija v imperatorskom obshhestve istorii i drevnostej rossijskih pri moskovskom universitete (Kn. 3). Moskva, 1862.
Kosmina, O. (2008). Tradytsijne vbrannia ukraintsiv (T. 1). Kyiv: Baltiia-druk.
Krykun, M. (2008). Bratslavs’ke voievodstvo u XVI–XVIII stolittiakh: Statti i mate-rialy. L’viv: vyd-vo Ukr. Katol. un-tu.
Krykun, M. (2012). Voievodstva Pravoberezhnoi Ukrainy u XVI–XVIII stolittiakh: Statti i materialy. L’viv: vyd-vo Ukr. Katol. un-tu.
Lazarevskij, A. (1896). Materialy dlja istorii obshhestvennogo i chastnogo byta v Malorossii XVIII v. Chtenija v istoricheskom obshhestva NestoraLetopisca. Kn. 11.
Lazarevskij, A.M. (1875). Obozrenie Rumjancevskoj opisi Malorossii (Vyp. ІІІ). Chernigov.
Lev Diakon (1988). Istorija. Moskva: Nauka.
Lokhvyts’ka ratushna knyha druhoi polovyny XVII st. (Zbirnyk aktovykh dokumentiv). Seriia «Pam’iatky ukrains’koi movy. Seriia aktovykh dokumentiv i hramot». Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1986.
Markovich, Ja. (1859). Dnevnye zapiski malorossijskogo podskarbija general’nogo Jakova Markovicha. Moskva. Ch. 1.
Markovich, Ja. (1859). Dnevnye zapiski malorossijskogo podskarbija general’nogo Jakova Markovicha. Moskva. Ch. 2.
Maslijchuk, V. (2002). Do istorii zhinochoho odiahu na Slobozhanschyni (za materialamy kryminal’noi spravy 1792 r.). Zbirnyk Kharkivs’koho istoryko-filolohichnoho tovarystva. Nova seriia (T. 9). Kharkiv.
Matejko, K. (1996). Ukrains’kyj narodnyj odiah. Etnohrafichnyj slovnyk. Kyiv: Naukova dumka.
Ogloblin, N. (1889). Bogatyj kievljanin konca XVII v. Kievskaja starina. Т. 25. № 5–6.
Opysy Kharkivs’koho namisnytstva kintsia XVIII st. Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1991.
Opis’ dvizhimogo imushhestva, prinadlezhavshego malorossijskomu getmanu Ivanu Samojlovichu i ego synov’jam, Grigoriju i Jakovu. Russkaja istoricheskaja biblioteka, izdavaemaja Arheograficheskoj kommissiej (T. VIII). Sankt-Peterburg, 1884.
Opis’ domashnih veshhej bunch. tov. Grigorija Fridrikevicha. Kievskaja starina. 1901. T. 72. № 2. Dokumenty, izvestija i zametki.
Polnoe sobranie russkih letopisej. T. 2. Ipat’evskaja letopis’. Sankt-Peterburg, 1908.
Polons’ka-Vasylenko, N. (1932). Majno zaporiz’koi starshyny, iak dzherelo dlia sotsial’no-ekonomichnoho doslidzhennia istorii Zaporizhzhia. Narysy z sotsial’no-ekonomichnoi istorii Ukrainy (T. I). Kyiv.
Teslenko, I. (2010). Slidy Frankenshtajna na Volyni (Reiestry majna Yana Fran-kenshtajna 1597 ta 1602 rr.). Zapysky naukovoho tovarystva im. T. Shevchenka. L’viv. T. CCLX. Kn. 2.
Savvaitov, P. (1896). Opisanie starinnyh carskih utvarej, odezhd, oruzhija, rat-nyh dospehov i konskogo pribora, izvlechennoe iz rukopisej arhiva moskovskoj oruzhejnoj palaty s objasnitel’nym ukazatelem Pavla Savvaitova. Sankt-Peterburg.
Slavutych, Ye.V. (2012). Vijs’kovyj kostium v Ukrains’kij kozats’kij derzhavi: uniformolohichnyj slovnyk. Kyiv: In-t istorii Ukrainy NAN Ukrainy.
Slovnyk ukrains’koi movy XVI – pershoi polovyny XVII st.: u 28-my vyp. (Vyp. 10). L’viv: In-t ukrainoznavstva im. I. Kryp’iakevycha NAN Ukrainy, 2003.
Slovnyk ukrains’koi movy: v 11-ty t. (T. 11). Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1980.
Spas’kyj, I.H. (1970). Dukaty i dukachi Ukrainy. Kyiv: Naukova dumka.
Sreznevskij, I.I. (1902). Materialy dlja slovarja drevnerusskogo jazyka (T. 2). Sankt-Peterburg.
Sreznevskij I.I. (1912). Materialy dlja slovarja drevnerusskogo jazika (T. 3). Sankt-Peterburg.
Storozhenki: Famil’nyj arhiv. T. VI. Kiev, 1908.
Storozhenko, A. (1892). K istorii Kieva v XV–XVI vv. Kievskaja starina. T. 36. № 2. Fevral’.
Sulimovskij arhiv. Famil’nye bumagi Sulim, Skorup i Vojcehovichej. XVII–XVIII vv. Kiev, 1884.
Tymchenko, Ye. (2002). Materialy do slovnyka pysemnoi ta knyzhkovoi ukrains’koi movy XV–XVIII st. Kyiv; N’iu Jork: In-t ukr. movy NAN Ukrainy.
Torhivlia na Ukraini. KhIV – seredyna KhVII stolittia. Volyn’ i Naddniprianschyna. Kyiv: Naukova dumka, 1990.
Ukrains’ke zolotarstvo. Dukachi. Al’bom. Seriia «Ukrains’ke narodne mystetstvo». L’viv: NTSh, 2014.
Ukrains’ke povsiakdennia rann’omodernoi doby: zbirnyk dokumentiv. Vyp. 1: Volyn’ XVI st. Kyiv: Feniks, 2014.
Fasmer, M. (1986). Jetimologicheskij slovar’ russkogo jazika (T. 2). Moskva: Progress.
Fasmer, M. (1987). Jetimologicheskij slovar’ russkogo jazika (T. 3). Moskva: Progress.
Bruckner, A. (1957). Slownik etymologiczny jezyka polkiego. Warczawa: Wieda Powszechna.
Linde, S.B. (1807). Slownik jezyka polskiego (T. 1). Warzsawa.
Јoziсski, W. (1890). Lwуw starożytny. Kartki z historyi sztuki s obyczajуw. Patrycyat i mieszczaсstwo Lwowskie w XVI i XVII wieku. Lwόw.
Slownik Polsczyznu XVI wieku (Т. 7). Wroclaw; Warszawa; Krakόw; Gdansk, 1973.
Slownik Polszcsyzny XVI wieku (Т. 10). Wroclaw; Warszawa; Krakόw; Gdansk, 1976.
Slownik polszczyzny XVI wieky (T. 13). Wroclaw; Warszawa; Krakόw; Gdansk; Lόdż, 1981.
Ŝevиenko, I. Sviatoslav in Byzantine and Slavic Miniatures. Slavic Review. 1965. Vol. 24.
Turnau, I. (1999). Slownik ubiorуw: tkaniny, wuroby pozatkackie, skуry, broс i klejnoty oraz barwy znane w Polsce od њredniowiecza do poczatku XIX w. Warszawa: Semper.
Keryk, M. Inventar ta akt otsinennia majna brodivs’koho lyvarnyka XVIII stolittia Illi Dublians’koho. URL: www.lnu.edu.ua/Subdivisions/um/um6/Dokumenty/ 2-KERYK.

Read»

Our authors
Daily bread baking of ukrainians in the south-western ethnographical region at the late XIX to early XXI cc.
The paper has dealt with analytic study in prescriptions, signs, customs, methods, ways of selection, procurement and some peculiarities in usage of subsidiary means — water, firewood and leaves in bread baking. The final aim of the mentioned actions had been (and still is) selection of the means and ingredients fit, by their characteristics, for the backing of bread. The paper has demonstrated dependence of bread backing subsi­diary means criteria from the folk nutritional standards and world outlook stereotypes as well as from regional social and economic, natural and geographical factors and peculiarities of material culture.
Read »

Wax candle as ukrainian Christmas and epiphany ritualistic text
For the first time in native ethnology the article has brought some results of special study in sign functionality of a wax candle under the context of Ukrainian Christmas and Epiphany ritualistic text (ritualism of Christmas Eve, New Year, Epiphany Eve and Feast of Epiphany). The study has stated extremely high semiotic position of a wax candle as projection of Sun, mediator between the spheres of sacral and prophane elements, symbolic analogue of human existence, apotropy, cultural symbol re-establishing borders of acculturated space.
Read »

Boikos’ pandemonium: categories of evil deceased
In the article have been presented some research-work on peculiarities of Boikos’ traditional demonological notions as for so-called evil deceased; on the basis of field records and ethnological literary sources quite a number of scum categories have been defined as well as essential habits, modes of behavior and functions of these personages of people’s demonology.
Read »

Traditional folk clothes of velikobychkovsky hutsuly of XIX — the first half of XX century
In the study based upon numerous field materials, literature sources as well as ethnographic, historio-cultural and regional museum collections has been performed complex analysis in traditional folk clothes by Hutzul population of Velyky Bychkiv village in Transcarpathian region. Detailed descriptions of femi­nine and masculine clothing complexes of the mentioned area have been presented. In characterizing of those main attention has been paid to the detail of cut in separate components of dress; cut of feminine shirt has been added as an illustration.
Read »