Archive

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2018, 2 (140), 353—362.

UDK  [746.4 + 391.4]:687.4(476.7-04 + 477.8-04)

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2018.02.353

 Received 11.01.2018

HEADDRESSES IN THE TRADITIONAL COSTUME OF BELARUSIAN-UKRAINIAN BORDERLAND (WESTERN POLISSIA)

ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1379-3922

Vinnikova Marya, senior researcher,

at the State Scientific Institution

«The Center for Belarusian Culture, Language and

Literature Research of the NAS of Belarus»

1 Surganov str., bldg 2, Minsk, 220072, Belarus

Abstrakt. Four variants of female headdresses, which were usual in traditional costume on the territory of the Belarusian-Ukrainian borderland (Western Polissia) in the late XIX — middle XX century, are considered in the article. Artistic and plastic features are analyzed, scientific reconstructions of wearing modes, made by the author on the basis of the study of museum items, archival and field materials are gi­ven. Three of the presented reconstructions are published for the first time.

Keywords: female headdress, hairstyle, chipets, namitky, ornament, folk art of plastic design, reconstruction.

REFERENCES

GGMIR KP-4982.
NIMRB № 6247/18.
NIMRB № 6247/34.
NIMRB № 6247/36.
ODBK KP-2103, T-776.
ODBK KP-1741, T-400.
ODBK KP-2513, T-1461.
ODBK KP-2514, T-1461 (a).
ODBK KP-2515, T-1461 (b).
ODBK KP-2516, T-1461 (v).
RJeM № 8762—12160.
Labachjeўskaja, V.A. & Bjalova, T.U. (Ed.). (2012).  Belarusy ў fotazdymkah Іsaka Serbava. 1911—1912. Mіnsk: Belarus. Jencykl. іmja P. Broўkі [in Belarusian].
Valodzіna, T. & Sadoўskaja, A. (2004). Kuryca. In S. San’ko (Ed.). Belaruskaja mіfalogіja: Jencyklapedychny sloўnіk (pp. 270—271).  Mіnsk [in Belarusian].
Valodzіna, T. Duchyc, L. & San’ko S. (2004). Peven’. In S. San’ko. Belaruskaja mіfalogіja: Jencyklapedychny sloўnіk (pp. 370—372) [in Belarusian].
Vіnnіkava, M. M. (2013). Mastacka-plastychnyja asablіvascі tradycyjnaga kascjuma mjastjechka Garodna Pіnskaga paveta Mіnskaj gubernі. In A.І. Lakotka (Ed.). DNU «Cjentr dasle-davannjaў belaruskaj kul’tury, movy і lіtaratury NAN Belarusі» (Vol. 14: Pytannі mastactvaznaўstva, jetnalogіі і fal’klarystykі (pp. 380—387). Mіnsk: Belaruskaja navuka [in Belarusian].
Vіnnіkava, M.M.  & Bogdan, P.A. (2012).  Narodny kascjum і tjekstyl’. In B. A. Lazuka (Ed.). Pomnіkі mastackaj kul’tury Belarusі: navuk.  Mіnsk [in Belarusian].
Vіnnіkava, M.M. & Bogdan P.A. (2009). Skarby z vjaskovyh kufraў: Tradycyjny kascjum і tjekstyl’ z kalekcyі «Narodnae mastactva belaruskaga Palessja»: іljustravany catalog.  Mіnsk : Belarus. Jencykl. іmja P. Broўkі [in Belarusian].
Vіnnіkava, M.M. (2009). Tradycyjnae adzenne. In T.B. Varfalameevaj (Ed.) Tradycyjnaja mastackaja kul’tura belarusaў : u 6 vol. (Vol. 4: Brjesckae Palesse : u 2 kn. Kn. 2 (pp. 655—744). Mіnsk : Vysh. Shk [in Belarusian].
Vіnnіkava, M.M. & Bogdan, P.A. Tradycyjny belaruskі kascjum: al’bom. Mіnsk: Belaruskaja navuka  .
Vuglіk, І. & Duchyc L. (2004).  Rog. In S. San’ko (Ed.). Belaruskaja mіfalogіja: Jencyklapedychny sloўnіk. Mіnsk [in Belarusian].
Artushevs’ka, I (Ed.). (2005). Narodni uzhytkovi formy Volyns’koп oblasti: vbrannia. Navchal’nyj posibnyk dlia studentiv spetsial’nostej «Dyzajn», «Obrazotvorche ta dekoratyvno-prykladne mystetstvo». Luts’k: LDTU [in Ukrainian].
Ramanjuk, M. F. (1981). Belaruskae narodnae adzenne. Mіnsk: Belarus’ [in Belarusian].
Rushchyk, G. & Jengel’kіng G. (1999). Palesse. Fotazdymkі z dvaccatyh і tryccatyh gadoў. Varshava: Іnstytut mastactva Pol’skaj akadjemіі navuk; Kafedra Belaruskaj kul’tury Ўnіversіtjeta ў Belastoku [in Belarusian].
Toporov, V.N. (1992). Petuh. In S.A. Tokarev (Ed.).  Mify narodov mira (Vol. 2, pp. 309—310). Moskva [in Russian].

Read»

Our authors
On bessarabian and moldavian ukrainians in the studies of historical ethnography
The article has thrown some light upon a sum of scientific findings got during XIX to XXI cc. in historio-ethnographic studies of Bessarabia and Moldavian Ukrainians. In the pre­sent paper has been given author’s answer to the problem of lacking progress as for the numerous themes concerning Ukrainians. State and achievements of the research-works in Ukrainians’ material and spiritual culture by the scientists of Moldavia and Ukraine through the years of independence has been exposed.
Read »

Boikos’ pandemonium: categories of evil deceased
In the article have been presented some research-work on peculiarities of Boikos’ traditional demonological notions as for so-called evil deceased; on the basis of field records and ethnological literary sources quite a number of scum categories have been defined as well as essential habits, modes of behavior and functions of these personages of people’s demonology.
Read »

Daily bread baking of ukrainians in the south-western ethnographical region at the late XIX to early XXI cc.
The paper has dealt with analytic study in prescriptions, signs, customs, methods, ways of selection, procurement and some peculiarities in usage of subsidiary means — water, firewood and leaves in bread baking. The final aim of the mentioned actions had been (and still is) selection of the means and ingredients fit, by their characteristics, for the backing of bread. The paper has demonstrated dependence of bread backing subsi­diary means criteria from the folk nutritional standards and world outlook stereotypes as well as from regional social and economic, natural and geographical factors and peculiarities of material culture.
Read »

Traditional folk clothes of velikobychkovsky hutsuly of XIX — the first half of XX century
In the study based upon numerous field materials, literature sources as well as ethnographic, historio-cultural and regional museum collections has been performed complex analysis in traditional folk clothes by Hutzul population of Velyky Bychkiv village in Transcarpathian region. Detailed descriptions of femi­nine and masculine clothing complexes of the mentioned area have been presented. In characterizing of those main attention has been paid to the detail of cut in separate components of dress; cut of feminine shirt has been added as an illustration.
Read »