« 2019. № 6 (150)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2019, № 6 (150), 1645—1657

UDK391:63-055.1″196/197″(477)

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2019.06.1645

PECULIARITIES OF MEN’S RURAL CLOTHING IN 1960th — 1970th ON THE EXAMPLE OF CHERVONA SLOBODA VILLAGE ACCORDING TO O. MEDVEDEV’S PHOTO ARCHIVE

CHUBOTINA Iryna

ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8436-0086

Postgraduate student Kyiv National University

of Culture and Arts

str. Evgeni Konovalets, 36, 01133, Kyiv, Ukraine

e-mail: iri-s83@outlook.com

Abstract. Introduction. The article dwells upon the peculiarities of evolution of the men’s clothing in the Ukrainian village. The research is based on the materials of O. Medvedev, a country expert. Memories and reflections of spectators and participants fixed in the village surrounding in the 1960th—1970th are the most valuable, since their achievements made the greatest impact on the present day men’s clothing. Problem Statement. The article is dedicated to the studies of the nature of these changes, as well as to the mutual influence of the rural and the urban men’s fashion in the 196-th—1970-th. There was carried out an art analysis of the urban and the rural Ukrainian costume. There were outlined artistic principles, peculiarities of fashion development in the traditional lifestyle of the Ukrainian village, as well as the turning points in the history of the men’s costume in Kyiv region. Purpose. The purpose of the article is to present the characteristics of a men’s rural costume in the context of the design of clothing in the 1960s and 1970s and to identify the features of its transformations and influence on the further development of the male image. Methodology. The article relies mainly on historical-cultural and comparative approaches as well as elements of structural-typological and geographical methods of ethnology and fashion studies. As a result, it was stated that the men’s costume becomes an actual reflection of the changes in the social and cultural life during the period of the «Thaw» in Ukraine. Conclusion. During this period there can be witnessed the change in both — in the costume itself, and in the attitude to it. Thus, fashion tendencies existing in the urban surrounding in the early 60-th were almost neglected by the rural clothing, whereas in the late 70-th it’s assortment and the character of the men’s rural and urban clothing becomes finally identical.

Keywords: Ukrainian rural clothes, men’s costume, fashion of the 1960s—1970s, clothes design.

Received 19.11.2019

REFERENCES

Selivachov, M.R. (Ed.). (2008). About rural fashion in Ukraine in the mid-twentieth century. Narodnyi kostium yak vyraznyk natsionalnoi identychnosti: zbirnyk naukovykh prats za red. M. Selivachova (Pp. 53—57). Kyiv: KhIK [in Ukrainian].
Vorobiei, O. (2015). Women’s clothing of the 1960’th and 1980’th (based on expedition materials from the villages of Podillya). Trybuna molodoho doslidnyka; Narodna tvorchist ta etnolohiia, 2, 103—112. ISSN 0130-6936 [in Ukrainian].
Kara-Vasylieva, T.V., & Chehusova, Z.A. (2005). Decorative art of Ukraine of XX century. «In search of great style». Decorative art of Ukraine of XX century. «In search of great style». Kyiv: Lybid [in Ukrainian].
Tkanko, Z.M. (2015). Fashion in Ukraine of the XX century. Lviv: Artos [in Ukrainian].
Kostelna, M.V. (2013). Activity of Ukrainian houses of clothing models in the 60—80’th of the XX century: concepts of the development of fashion trends. Visnyk Lvivskoi natsionalnoi akademii mystetstv, 24, 36—48 [in Ukrainian].
Kokorina, H.V. (2017). 1940—1990 Fashion: Ukrainian Chronicle. Visnyk KhDADM, 5, 73—79 [in Ukrainian].
Barlett, Dj. (2011). Fashion East: The Spectre that Haunted Socialism. Moscow: Novoe literaturnoe obozrenie [in Russian].
Khomenko, S. (2013). Qualitative changes in the living conditions of Ukrainian peasants. Hileia: naukovyi visnyk, 74, 69—72 [in Ukrainian].
Kovpak, L.V. (2003). Social and living conditions of the population of Ukraine in the second half of the twentieth century (1945—2000). (Dr. hist. sci. diss. abstr.). Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
Oliinyk, M. (2017). Ukrainian clothes in the system of urban culture of Kyiv (second half of XIX — beginning of XXI century). Kyiv: NAN of Ukraine; IMFE. ISBN 978-966-02-8365-7 [in Ukrainian].
Vovk, V.M. (2007). Urban life and leisure of the urban population of Ukraine in the 1950—1980s. XX century (Doctoral dissertation). Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
Lebina, N.B. (2014). Man and woman: body, fashion, culture. USSR — the thaw. Moscow: Novoe literaturnoe obozrenie [in Russian].
Models of clothing. (1962). Kyivskyi budynok modelei. Albom modelei odiahu. Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
Fashion. (1966). Kyiv: Oktiabr [in Ukrainian].
Bilan, M.S. & Stelmashchuk, H.H. (2011). Ukrainian clothes. Lviv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
Lerman, Ya. (2018) History of male Ukrainian fashion: 70—80s. L`Officiel. Kyiv. Retrieved from: https://officiel-online.com/style/the-history-of-men-s-ukrainian-fashion-70-80-s/ (Last accessed: 17.09.2018) [in Russian].
Fashion. (1970). Kyivski budynky modelei proponuiut. Kyiv: Reklama [in Ukrainian].
Your home is Kyiv. (1976). Kyiv: Reklama [in Ukrainian].
rainian].

Read»

Our authors
On bessarabian and moldavian ukrainians in the studies of historical ethnography
The article has thrown some light upon a sum of scientific findings got during XIX to XXI cc. in historio-ethnographic studies of Bessarabia and Moldavian Ukrainians. In the pre­sent paper has been given author’s answer to the problem of lacking progress as for the numerous themes concerning Ukrainians. State and achievements of the research-works in Ukrainians’ material and spiritual culture by the scientists of Moldavia and Ukraine through the years of independence has been exposed.
Read »

On field exploration of russian and belarusian ethnologists and etnolinguists in Ukrainian Polisia 1945—1980s
In the study based on a wide range of literary materials have been comprehensively characterised field research in Polisia of Ukraine, performed by Russian and Belarusian ethnologists during 1945—1980s as well as Moscow ethnolinguists and other researchers from ethnologic centres of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus in the course of realization of Ethnolinguistic Atlas of Polisia program. Particular attention has been paid to geography, methods, themes and research results of scientific projects.
Read »

Traditional folk clothes of velikobychkovsky hutsuly of XIX — the first half of XX century
In the study based upon numerous field materials, literature sources as well as ethnographic, historio-cultural and regional museum collections has been performed complex analysis in traditional folk clothes by Hutzul population of Velyky Bychkiv village in Transcarpathian region. Detailed descriptions of femi­nine and masculine clothing complexes of the mentioned area have been presented. In characterizing of those main attention has been paid to the detail of cut in separate components of dress; cut of feminine shirt has been added as an illustration.
Read »

Maternity ritualism by volhynians in publications of the second half XIX to the early XXI cc.
In the article have been considered some basic landmarks for fixing and publication of ethnographic materials on the maternity rites of Volhynia with analytical study in ritual elements, their kinds and territories of origin. The article has also raised a problem of gaps in studies of maternity rites of Ukrainian historio-ethnographic Volhynia.
Read »