« 2019. #1 (145)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2019, 1 (145), 41—47

UDK 745/749 : 7.02
DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2019.01.041



ORCID ID: https://orsid.org/0000-0002-4583-8195

Postgraduate student, Kiev National University of Culture and Arts,

36, Evgeni Konovalets str., 01133, Kyiv, Ukraine

Contacts: e-mail: goshalebedev@gmail.com

Abstract. «Ethno-Design» is a very popular notion in the specialized Ukrainian literature of our days. Behind the frequency of its use attempts are being made to impart «ethnic coloring» to modern samples of clothing, print, the interior design etc. However, keeps the uncomfortable question: is design possible in the current conditions of Ukrainian industry? In the form of a compensatory mechanism, a kind of «dictionary» appears for the folk art translation into the language of design. Will not the desire for national «recognition» lead to the next after 1940-50s «neo-adornment» trend, whimsically connected with cultural traditions, when the design is burdened by a sign layer alien to it, and the work itself (thing) is burdened with its inherent fictitious function?

Keywords: design, ethno- design, decorative arts, function, thing.

Received 24.12.2018


Gumilev, L. (1994). Konec i vnov nachalo. Moskva [in Russian].
Gumilev, L. (1970). Etnogenez i etnosfera. Priroda, 1, 10—43 [in Russian].
Genon, R. (2005). Vostok i Zapad. Moskva. Retrieved from: http://www.fatuma.net/text/guenon-vostok-i-zapad.pdf (data zvernennya: 02.09.2018) [in Russian].
Kepeschuk, P. (2004). Suchasni problemy v meblevomu vyrobnytstvi. Mystetstvoznavstvo’04 [in Ukrainian].
Rudenchenko, A. (2013). Metodolohichni osnovy navchannia etnodyzajnu u vyschykh mystets’kykh navchal’nykh zakladakh. Visnyk Chernihivs’koho natsional’noho pedahohichnoho universytetu, 110, 278—281 [in Ukrainian].
Video-lektsiia Deyan Sudzhich: Yazyk veshej. Retrieved from: https://vimeo.com/24164410 [in Russian].
Baudrillard, J. (1995). Sistema veshej. Moskva: Rudomino [in Russian].
Yurchenko, I. (2015). Aktual’ni hrani etnomystets’koi tradytsii v dyzajn-diial’nosti. Etnodyzajn: ievropejs’kyj vektor rozvytku i natsional’nyj kontekst (Kn. 3, pp. 94—98) [in Ukrainian].
Svirko, V.O. (Ed.). (2009). Slovnyk z dyzajnu i erhonomiky. 2-he vyd. Kyiv: NTMT [in Ukrainian].
Yurchenko, I. (2014). Syntez ornamental’nosti j minimalizmu v stylistytsi etnodyzajnu. Mystetstvoznavstvo’14 [in Ukrainian].
Kryzhanivs’kyj, O. (2012). Teoretychne osmyslennia kul’turno-istorychnoi spadschyny naselenykh punktiv Ukrainy v konteksti staloho prostorovoho rozvytku Yevropy. Istoryko-kul’turna spadschyna Dniprovs’koho Livoberezhzhia, Kurs’koho Posejm’ia ta Slobozhanschyny: mynule i suchasnist’: Zbirnyk materialiv mizhnarodnoi naukovo-praktychnoi konferentsii, prysv. 285-richchiu obrannia Danyla Apostola het’manom Livoberezhnoi Ukrainy (m. Hlukhiv, 24 liutoho 2012). Hlukhiv; Nizhyn, 2012 [in Ukrainian].
Scho zabezpechylo peremohu ukrains’kykh dyzajneriv na Paryz’komu tyzhni dyzajnu? Interv’iu. Retrieved from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMyF8TDzrg&t=963s (data zvernennia: 29.09.2018) [in Ukrainian].
Stankevych, M. (1999). Narodne mystetstvo i dyzajn: lohika osnovnykh rivniv formotvorennia. Mystetstvoznavstvo’99 (pp. 65—70) [in Ukrainian].
Stankevych, M. (2004). Utylitarnist’ dekoratyvnoho mystetstva. Mystetstvoznavstvo’04 (pp. 9—17) [in Ukrainian].
Bodnar, O. (2000). Peredumovy i deiaki aktual’ni problemy rozvytku dyzajnu v Ukraini. Mystetstvoznavstvo’2000 (pp. 45—52) [in Ukrainian].
Bozhko, T. (2013). Etnichna symvolika u masovij kul’turi: problemy ta naslidky zastosuvannia. Aktual’ni problemy istorii, teorii ta praktyky khudozhn’oi kul’tury, 31, 104—111 [in Ukrainian].
Bodnar, O. (2005). Aktual’ni problemy suchasnoi teorii dyzajnu. In Suchasni problemy doslidzhennia, restavratsii ta zberezhennia kul’turnoi spadschyny (Vyp. 2, pp. 22—28) [in Ukrainian].
Kardash, O., & Luhantseva, D. (2014). Styl’ovi oznaky natsional’noho v ukrains’komu dyzajni. Teoriia ta praktyka dyzajnu, 6, 54—60 [in Ukrainian].
Tatiivs’kyj, P. (2002). Priorytetni zadachi vitchyznianoho dyzajnu na suchasnomu etapi joho stanovlennia. Tekhnichna estetyka i dyzajn (Vyp. 2, pp. 9—12) [in Ukrainian].
Svirko, V., & Rubtsov, A. (2012). Priorytetni napriamky rozvytku natsional’noho dyzajnu. Teoriia ta praktyka dyzajnu, 1, 13—26 [in Ukrainian].
Yurchenko, I. (2001). Problema natsional’nykh tradytsij v suchasnij dyzajn-diial’nosti. Mystetstvoznavstvo’01 (pp. 141—154) [in Ukrainian].


Our authors
Daily bread baking of ukrainians in the south-western ethnographical region at the late XIX to early XXI cc.
The paper has dealt with analytic study in prescriptions, signs, customs, methods, ways of selection, procurement and some peculiarities in usage of subsidiary means — water, firewood and leaves in bread baking. The final aim of the mentioned actions had been (and still is) selection of the means and ingredients fit, by their characteristics, for the backing of bread. The paper has demonstrated dependence of bread backing subsi­diary means criteria from the folk nutritional standards and world outlook stereotypes as well as from regional social and economic, natural and geographical factors and peculiarities of material culture.
Read »

Boikos’ pandemonium: categories of evil deceased
In the article have been presented some research-work on peculiarities of Boikos’ traditional demonological notions as for so-called evil deceased; on the basis of field records and ethnological literary sources quite a number of scum categories have been defined as well as essential habits, modes of behavior and functions of these personages of people’s demonology.
Read »

On bessarabian and moldavian ukrainians in the studies of historical ethnography
The article has thrown some light upon a sum of scientific findings got during XIX to XXI cc. in historio-ethnographic studies of Bessarabia and Moldavian Ukrainians. In the pre­sent paper has been given author’s answer to the problem of lacking progress as for the numerous themes concerning Ukrainians. State and achievements of the research-works in Ukrainians’ material and spiritual culture by the scientists of Moldavia and Ukraine through the years of independence has been exposed.
Read »

Traditional folk clothes of velikobychkovsky hutsuly of XIX — the first half of XX century
In the study based upon numerous field materials, literature sources as well as ethnographic, historio-cultural and regional museum collections has been performed complex analysis in traditional folk clothes by Hutzul population of Velyky Bychkiv village in Transcarpathian region. Detailed descriptions of femi­nine and masculine clothing complexes of the mentioned area have been presented. In characterizing of those main attention has been paid to the detail of cut in separate components of dress; cut of feminine shirt has been added as an illustration.
Read »