Archive

« 2017. #1 (133)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2017, 1 (133), 203–224

UDK 746.2:391-055.2] (477.8) ″19/21″

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2017.01.203

ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8742-4337

Received 23.01.2017

LOCAL PECULIARITIES OF POKUTTIA`S FOLK KNITTED AND LACE GOODS AT LATE XIX — EARLY XXI CENTURIES: OCHIPKY

Kozakevich Olena Romanivna, Candidate of Art Studies, researcher of the Department of Folk Art of the Institute of Ethnology of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine

Svobody Avenue 15, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine.

Contacts: kozakevych.olena@gmail.com

Abstract. Local features of traditional net caps («ochipkiv») the late XIX — early XXI century — in the context of traditional Pokuttia dress are considered, for the first time, in the article. The author’s fieldwork in Pokuttia during 2012—2016 years is in the basis of the study of ways to wear, typology, techniques and artistic features of net caps. For the first time, information from respondents, photos of ancient and modern artifacts are introduced into scientific use. One of the main scientific findings — fixing of hand maid techniques of weaving of Pokuttia women’s net caps.

Keywords: hat, peremitka, kerchief, cap, hair, typology, needle work, crochetting, local features, feature attributes, tradition.

REFERENCES

Bilan, M., & Stelmashchuk, H. (2000). Ukrainskyi strii (pp. 271–280). Lviv: Feniks. [in Ukrainian].
Bilan, M., & Stelmashchuk, H. (2011). Ukrainskyi strii. Lviv: Apriori. (Vydannia druhe, dopovnene) [in Ukrainian].
Vystavka hospodarsko-promyslova v Kolomyy (1881). (spravozdane Petra Chornoho). Stanyslavov [in Ukrainian].
Zholobailo, Ya. (2000). «Tse Matiivtsi – nashe selo…». Istoryko-etnohrafichnyi narys (pp. 142–143). Kolomyia: Vik. [in Ukrainian].
Zelenyn, D. (1927). Zhenskye holovne ubory vostochnykh (russkikh) slavian. (hlava 8–13, pp. 535–556). Praze [in Russian].
Zelenyn, D. (1926). Zhenskye holovne ubory vostochnykh (russkykh) slavian (Hlava 1–7, pp. 303–338). Praze [in Russian].
Katalog Pershoi ukrainskoi khliborobskoi vystavy v Stryiu. (1909). Stryi [in Ukrainian].
Kyrchiv, R. (2015). Istoriohrafiia etnohrafichnoho doslidzhennia Pokuttia. Narodoznavchi Zoshyty, 1(121), 70–90 [in Ukrainian].
Kovalivka — z hlybyny vikiv i do nashykh dniv. (2008). Kolomyia: Vilnyi holos [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2010). Oseredky trykotazhnoho vyrobnytstva: Ivano-Frankivshchyna. Mystetstvoznavstvo, 10, 79—92 [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2015). Tradytsiini viazani ta merezhyvni vyroby na Boikivshchyni i Pidhiri kintsya ХІХ — pochatku ХХI stolittia: vbrannia (za materialamy mystetstvoznavchykh ekspedytsii 2005–2006-kh rr.). Narodoznavchi zoshyty, 5(125), 1127–1149 [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2014). Typolohiia ukrainskykh narodnykh viazanykh ta merezhyvnykh vyrobiv ХІХ – pochatku ХХІ stolittia: vbrannia. Narodoznavchi zoshyty. Seriia mystetstvoznavch,. 6(120), 1403–1419 [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2011). Ukrainski tradytsiini viazani vyroby kintsia ХІХ—ХХ st.: lokalni osoblyvosti (za materialamy zakhidnykh oblastei). In Zapysky Naukovoho tovarystva im. T. H. Shevchenka. Pratsi komisii obrazotvorchoho ta uzhytkovoho mystetstva. (T.CCLXI(261), pp. 503–524). L’viv [in Ukrainian].
Kozakevych, O. (2014). Ukrainski narodni merezhyvni ta viazani vyroby kintsia ХІХ – pochatku ХХI stolittia: Istoriohrafiia pytannia. Narodoznavchi zoshyty. Seriia mystetstvoznavcha, 5(119), 951–966 [in Ukrainian].
Korolko, A. (2013). Mezhi Pokuttia v istoryko-kraieznavchykh ta etnohrafichnykh doslidzhenniakh ХІХ — pochatku ХХІ stolittia. In Ukraina: kulturna spadshchyna, natsionalna svidomist, derzhavnist (Vyp. 23, pp. 246–260). L’viv [in Ukrainian].
Kosmina O. (2011). Tradytsiine vbrannia ukraintsiv. Kyiv : Baltiia-Druk. T. II. Polissia. Karpaty [in Ukrainian].
Krechkovskyi L. (2000). Vystavky. In Entsyklopediia Kolomyishchyny. za red. M. Vasylchuka, M. Savchuka. Zshytok 3. Litera V. Kolomyia. 128–129 [in Ukrainian].
Kupchynskyi, B. (2015). Tyshkivtsi: slidy, vkarbovani u vichnist. Narys z istorii sela z naidavnishykh chasiv i do sohodennia (241–245). Ivano-Frankivsk [in Ukrainian].
Lasiichuk, M., & Ludchak, I. (1998). Nyzhnii Verbizh. Narysy i materialy z istorii ta narodoznavstva. Kolomyia: Vik [in Ukrainian].
Maslova, H. S. (1984). Narodnaia odezhda v vostochnoslavianskykh tradytsyonnыkh obыchaiakh y obriadakh ХІХ – nachala ХХ v. (pp. 47–62). Moskva: Nauka [in Russian].
Mateiko, K. (1977). Ukrainskyi narodnyi odiah. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
Melnyk, L. (2000). Vystavky. In Entsyklopediia Kolomyishchyny (Zshytok 3. Litera V, pp. 129–129). Kolomyya [in Ukrainian].
Molyn, V. (2012). Vystavky u Kolomyi yak vyznachni podii kulturno-mystetskoho zhyttia Halychyny druhoi polovyny ХІХ stolittia. In Visnyk natsionalnoi akademii kerivnykh kadriv kultury i mystetstv (pp. 127–131) [in Ukrainian].
Nahorniak, Kh. (2012). Khudozhno-konstruktyvni osoblyvosti narodnoho vbrannia na Pokutti kintsia ХІХ – seredyny ХХ stolittia (Istoriia, typolohiia, khudozhnia systema stroiu): avtoref. dys… kand.. mystetstvoznavstva. Ivano-Frankivsk: B. v. [in Ukrainian].
Nahorniak, Kh. (2008). Pokutskyi kostium u pratsiakh etnohrafiv ta doslidnykiv. Visnyk KhDADM, 14, 83–89 [in Ukrainian].
Nahorniak, Kh. (2011). Istoriia doslidzhennia pokutskoho kostiuma u pratsiakh etnohrafiv ta mystetstvoznavtsiv. In Yamhoriv (Ch. 18–19, pp. 196–206) [in Ukrainian].
Nadopta, A. (2005). Z istorii Pershoi ukrainskoi khliborobskoi vystavky v Stryiu. Narodoznavchi zoshyty, 1–2, 185–190 [in Ukrainian].
Nychai, A. (1881). Vystavka hospodarsko-promyslova v Kolomye (pp. 21—47). Stanyslavov [in Ukrainian].
Nikolaieva, T. O. (1993). Odiah. Istorychni peredumovy formuvannia tradytsiinoho odiahu Podillia. In Podillia. Istoryko-etnohrafichne doslidzhennia (260–282). Kyiv: Dolia. [in Ukrainian].
Nikolaieva, T. (1996). Istoriya ukrainskoho kostiuma. Kyiv: Lybid [in Ukrainian].
Pokuttia. Istoryko-etnohraichnyi narys. (2010). Lviv: Manuskrypt [in Ukrainian].
Sviontek, I. Vyshyvky zhinochykh ta cholovichykh sorochok i peremitok Horodenkivshchyny ХІХ — pershoi polovyny ХХ stolittia. In Yamhoriv. Literaturno-kraieznavchyi i mystetskyi almanakh (Ch. 22–23, pp. 213–214). Sniatyn. [in Ukrainian].
Sviontek, I. (2012). «Pokutski vyshyvky Prykarpattia». Mystetstvo heometrychnoho ornamentu i kolorytu. Pershyi mystetskyi albom. Lviv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
Stelmashchuk, H. (1993). Tradytsiini holovni ubory ukraintsiv. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
Stelmashchuk, H. (2013). Ukrainski narodni holovni ubory. Lviv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
Korolko, A. (2014). Stefanykivskyi krai Cheremoshu i Prutu… Sniatynshchyna. Istoryko-etnohrafichnyi narys. Sniatyn; Ivano-Frankivsk; Lviv: Manuskrypt-Lviv [in Ukrainian].
Turkavskyi, M. (2004). Etnohrafichna vystavka Pokuttia v Kolomyi. Kolomyia: Narodnyi dim. M. Turkavskyi [in Ukrainian].
Kolos, S., Hurhula, I., Lobanovskyi, B. (1961) Ukrainske narodne mystetstvo. Vbrannia. (Vyp. 2). Kyiv: Derzhavne vyd. obrazotvorchoho mystetstva i muz. lit. URSR [in Ukrainian].
Burachyns’ka, L. (edc.) (1992). Ukrainskyi narodnyi odiah (pp. 113—124). Toronto; Filadelfiia. [in Ukrainian].
Khrapko, E. (1997). Istoriia Zavallia (pp. 161–163), Kolomyia: Vik. [in Ukrainian].
Chaban, D. (1994). Selo nad bystroplynnoiu Rybnytseiu. Dzhurovu – 600 lit
Falkowski, J. (1938). Północno-wschodnie pogranicze Huculszczyzny. Lwów [in Polish].
Katalog przedmiotów Wystawy Etnograficznej Oddziału Czarnohorskiego, Tow. Tatrzańskiego obejmującej powiaty: Kołomyjski, Kossowski, Śniatyński, Horodeński, Zaleszczycki i Borszczowski połączonej z Wystawą płodów górskich, która zaszcycona obecnością Najjaśniejszego Cesarza I Króla Franciszka Józefa I, otwartą została w dniu 15 września 1880 roku w Kołomyji. (1880). Lwów [in Polish].
Kolberg, O. (1882). Ubiór. In Pokucie. Obraz etnograficzny. (T. 1, pp. 35–49). Kraków [in Polish].
Kozakevych, O. (2016). Ludowe wyroby dziane i koronkarskie na Bojkowszczyźnie i Podgórzu w końcu XIX – na początku XXI wieku: cechy regionalne i odmiany lokalne (na podstawie badań terenowych w latach 2005–2006). Łemkowie, Bojkowie, Rusini. In Historia, współczesność, kultura materialna i duchowna (Vol. VI, pp. 438–458). Słupsk [in Polish].
Mroczko, Fr. (1897). Śniatyńszczyzna. Przewodnik naukowy i literacki. Dodatek miesięczne do «Gazety Lwowskiej». Rocznik XXV. Lwów [in Polish].
Turkawski, M. (1880). Wystawa etnograficzna Pokucia w Kolomyi. Kraków : CZAS [in Polish].

Read»

Our authors
Wax candle as ukrainian Christmas and epiphany ritualistic text
For the first time in native ethnology the article has brought some results of special study in sign functionality of a wax candle under the context of Ukrainian Christmas and Epiphany ritualistic text (ritualism of Christmas Eve, New Year, Epiphany Eve and Feast of Epiphany). The study has stated extremely high semiotic position of a wax candle as projection of Sun, mediator between the spheres of sacral and prophane elements, symbolic analogue of human existence, apotropy, cultural symbol re-establishing borders of acculturated space.
Read »

Boikos’ pandemonium: categories of evil deceased
In the article have been presented some research-work on peculiarities of Boikos’ traditional demonological notions as for so-called evil deceased; on the basis of field records and ethnological literary sources quite a number of scum categories have been defined as well as essential habits, modes of behavior and functions of these personages of people’s demonology.
Read »

On bessarabian and moldavian ukrainians in the studies of historical ethnography
The article has thrown some light upon a sum of scientific findings got during XIX to XXI cc. in historio-ethnographic studies of Bessarabia and Moldavian Ukrainians. In the pre­sent paper has been given author’s answer to the problem of lacking progress as for the numerous themes concerning Ukrainians. State and achievements of the research-works in Ukrainians’ material and spiritual culture by the scientists of Moldavia and Ukraine through the years of independence has been exposed.
Read »

Daily bread baking of ukrainians in the south-western ethnographical region at the late XIX to early XXI cc.
The paper has dealt with analytic study in prescriptions, signs, customs, methods, ways of selection, procurement and some peculiarities in usage of subsidiary means — water, firewood and leaves in bread baking. The final aim of the mentioned actions had been (and still is) selection of the means and ingredients fit, by their characteristics, for the backing of bread. The paper has demonstrated dependence of bread backing subsi­diary means criteria from the folk nutritional standards and world outlook stereotypes as well as from regional social and economic, natural and geographical factors and peculiarities of material culture.
Read »