The Ethnology Notebooks. 2018, 2 (140), 344—352.
UDK: 391:7.025.4(=161.2)”18/20”
DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2018.02.344
Received 22.02.2018
UKRAINIAN FOLK COSTUME RECONSTRUCTION AS A WAY OF FINDING NATIONAL IDENTITY
ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6522-0640
Kutsyr Tetiana Vasylivna, Junior Researcher
at the Ethnology Institute
of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,
Folk Art Department
Svobody Avenue 15, 79000, Lviv, Ukraine.
Contacts: Tel. (097) 752-2518; e-mail: sonechko_29@ukr.net
Abstrakt. In this paper Ukrainian folk costume reconstruction’s peculiarities of the early XXI century are discussed. «Reconstruction» as scientific and museum term is considered. Views at the Ukrainian folk costume in the XIX — early XXI centuries in historical context and related representation are analyzed. It is revealed which social needs these reconstructions satisfy and their connection with the search for a national identity. The typical image created in this way is outlined.
Keywords: Ukrainian folk costume, reconstruction, national identity, component, ensemble.
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Karmazina, M.S. (2013).Identities in Modern Scientific Discourse. Naukovi zapysky IPiEND im. I.F. Kurasa NAN Ukrainy, 3, 4—29 [in Ukrainian].
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Lokshyna, S.M. (1977). Concise Dictionary of Foreign Words. Moscow: Russkiy yazyk [in Russian].
Mateiko, K. (1977). Ukrainian Folk Clothes. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
Mateiko, K. (1996).Ukrainian Folk Clothes.Ethnographic Dictionary. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
Nikolaieva, T. (2005).Ukrainian Costume. Hope for the Renaissance. Kyiv: Dnipro [in Ukrainian].
Selivachov, M. (2008).About Rural Fashionin Ukrainein the Middle of the XX Century.Narodnyi kostium yak vyraznyk natsionalnoi identychnosti: Proceedings of the All-Ukrainian Scientific and Practical Conference. Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
Stel`mashchuk, H.H. (2013).Ukrainian Folk Clothes. L`viv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
Ukazatel’ russkoy etnograficheskoy vystavki, ustroennoy Obshchestvom lyubiteley estestvoznanіya sostoyashchim pri Imperatorskom Moskovskom universitete (1867). Moscow: V Universitetskoy tipografii (KatkoviK°) [in Russian].
Kara-Vasyl`ieva, T. (Ed.) (1993).Ukrainian Embroidery: Album. Kyiv: Mystetstvo [in Ukrainian].
Huslystyj, K.H. (Ed.).(1961). Ukrainian Folk Art.Clothes.Kyiv: Derzhavne vydavnytstvo obrazotvorchoho mystetstva i muzychnoi literatury URSR [in Ukrainian].
Shcherbij, H.Ukrainian Costume in the Globalization Circs. Narodnyi kostium yak vyraznyk natsionalnoi identychnosti: Proceedings of the All-Ukrainian Scientific and Practical Conference. Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
«Shchyri. Spadshchyna»: Ukrainian Costumes Calendar. Kyiv, 2016.Retrieved from: http://www.bbc.com/ukrainian/features-38301568 (Last accessed 20.12.2016) [in Ukrainian].
Shpuliar, U. (2017).L`viv citizens Will Welcome Ethnic Teams from Different Countries of the World on the Independent.L`viv, 2017.Retrieved from: http://city-adm.lviv.ua/news/culture/241517-lvivian-z-dnem-nezalezhnosti-vitatymut-etnokolektyvy-z-riznykh-krain-svitu (Last accessed 04.10.2017) [in Ukrainian].
Project #Vytoky.18 October, 14:30.Mystetskyi Arsenal.Kyiv, 2015.Retrieved from:http://fashionweek.ua/en/news/ukrainian/proekt-vitoki. (Last accessed 04.10.2017) [in Ukrainian].
The Project «Shchyri» Was Presented in Kyiv. Kyiv, 2014. Retrieved from:https://vogue.ua/ua/article/culture/v-kieve-predstavili-proekt-shhiri4909.html (Last accessed 04.10.2017) [in Russian].
Art Department Fond of Lviv National Vasyl Stefanyk Library of Ukraine, f. J. Glogovsky. Glogovsky, J.Kobieta z Halicza, 1834, № 11222.
Art Department Fond of Lviv National Vasyl Stefanyk Library of Ukraine, f. J. Glogovsky. Glogovsky, J.Kobieta z Grodka, 1834,№ 11218.
Art Department Fond of Lviv National Vasyl Stefanyk Library of Ukraine, f. J. Glogovsky. Glogovsky, J.Mieszczanin Halicki, 1834,№ 11221.
Art Department Fond of Lviv National Vasyl Stefanyk Library of Ukraine, f. J. Glogovsky. Glogovsky, J.Mieszczanin lwуwski w deli, 1834,№ 11474.
Art Department Fond of Lviv National Vasyl Stefanyk Library of Ukraine, f. J. Glogovsky. Glogovsky, J.Stroj mlodej kobiety z Bursztyna, 1835,№ 11165.
Bilan, М.С., Stel`mashchuk, H.H.(2000).Ukrainian Costume.L`viv [in Ukrainian].
Bilous, L. (2008). Brocard Embroidery in Ukrainian Folk Costume of the Second Half of the XIX — Early XX Centuries. Narodnyi kostium yak vyraznyk natsionalnoi identychnosti: Proceedings of the All-Ukrainian Scientific and Practical Conference. Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
Vasina, Z.O. (2013). To the Question of Methodology of the Reconstruction Ukrainian Folk Costume. Naukovi zapysky NaUKMA. Teoriia ta istoriia kultury (pp. 80—85) (Vols. 140). Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
Holovatskij, Ja.F. (1878).Galician and Hungarian Rus` Folk Songs Collected byJa. F. Holovatskij. Part I. Dumas and Dumkas. Mosсow: Izdanіe Imperatorskago Obshchestva Istorіi I Drevnostey Rossіyskik pri Moskovskom Universitete [in Russian].
Holovatskij, Ja.F. (1868). About the costumes or Folk Dressing by Rusyns or Russians in Galicia and Northeastern Hungary. Petrograd: Tipografiya A.A. Kraevskago [in Russian].
Holovatskij, Ja.F. (1877). About the costumes or Folk Dressing by Rusyns or Russians in Galicia and Northeastern Hungary.St. Peterburg: Tipografіya V. Kirshbauma [in Russian].
Dode, Z.V.(2005). Costumeas Representation of the Historical and Cultural Reality: to the Question about the Research Method. In A. V. Jevglevskij (Ed.) Structural and Semiotic Studies in Archeology (Vol. 2) Donetsk: Natsional`nyjuniversytet [in Russian].
Smolij, V.A. (Ed. Head).(2005). Encyclopedia of Ukrainian History. (Vol. 2). Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
Zabuzhko, О.(2007).Notre Dame d’Ukraine: Ukrainka in the Conflict of Mythologies. Kyiv: Fakt [in Ukrainian].
Il`nytskyj, M. (2007). Imanology. InIl`nytskyj M., Bydnyj V. Comparative Literary Studies. (Vol. 1). Lviv: Vydavnychyi tsentr Lvivskoho national`noho universytetu imeni Ivana Franka [in Ukrainian].
Kalashnikova, N.M. (2009).To the Question about Definitions: Reconstruction — Copy — Replica of the Costime.Trudy Sankt-Peterburgskogo gosudarstvennogo instituta kul’tury, 97—100 [in Russian].
Karmazina, M.S. (2013).Identities in Modern Scientific Discourse. Naukovi zapysky IPiEND im. I.F. Kurasa NAN Ukrainy, 3, 4—29 [in Ukrainian].
Crossley, M.L. (2013). Narrative Psychology. Kharkov: Gumanitarnyy tsentr [in Russian].
Kul`chyts`ka, О.(1959).Folk Clothes of Western Regions of USSR. Kyiv: Vydavnytstvo Akademii nauk Ukrainskoi RSR [in Ukrainian].
Kutsyr, T.(2016).Female Bridal Headdresses: Artistic, Stylistic, Typological and Semantic Aspects (in Example of Boyko and Opola Wreaths).In B. Halczak, R. Drozd, S. Dudra, O. Kozakevych, O. Kuzmenko, P.J. Best, M. Љmigel` (Eds.) Јemkowie, bojkowie, rusini. Historia, wspуіczesnoњж, kultura materialna I duchowa. (Vol. VI).Sіupsk [in Ukrainian].
Bychkov, V.V. (Ed.). (2003).Nonclassic Lexicon. Art and Aesthetic Culture of the XX Century.Moskva: Rossiyskaya politicheskaya entsiklopediya [in Russian].
Lysak, N.S.(2011).National Identity and National Characters in the Literature: Differences and Points of Contact. Naukovi pratsi Chornomorskoho derzhavnoho universytetu imeni Petra Mohyly kompleksu «Kyievo-Mohylianska akademiia».Seriia Filolohiia. Literaturoznavstvo. (Vol. 168), 156, 76—80 [in Ukrainian].
Lokshyna, S.M. (1977). Concise Dictionary of Foreign Words. Moscow: Russkiy yazyk [in Russian].
Mateiko, K. (1977). Ukrainian Folk Clothes. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
Mateiko, K. (1996).Ukrainian Folk Clothes.Ethnographic Dictionary. Kyiv: Naukova dumka [in Ukrainian].
Nikolaieva, T. (2005).Ukrainian Costume. Hope for the Renaissance. Kyiv: Dnipro [in Ukrainian].
Selivachov, M. (2008).About Rural Fashionin Ukrainein the Middle of the XX Century.Narodnyi kostium yak vyraznyk natsionalnoi identychnosti: Proceedings of the All-Ukrainian Scientific and Practical Conference. Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
Stel`mashchuk, H.H. (2013).Ukrainian Folk Clothes. L`viv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
Ukazatel’ russkoy etnograficheskoy vystavki, ustroennoy Obshchestvom lyubiteley estestvoznanіya sostoyashchim pri Imperatorskom Moskovskom universitete (1867). Moscow: V Universitetskoy tipografii (KatkoviK°) [in Russian].
Kara-Vasyl`ieva, T. (Ed.) (1993).Ukrainian Embroidery: Album. Kyiv: Mystetstvo [in Ukrainian].
Huslystyj, K.H. (Ed.).(1961). Ukrainian Folk Art.Clothes.Kyiv: Derzhavne vydavnytstvo obrazotvorchoho mystetstva i muzychnoi literatury URSR [in Ukrainian].
Shcherbij, H.Ukrainian Costume in the Globalization Circs. Narodnyi kostium yak vyraznyk natsionalnoi identychnosti: Proceedings of the All-Ukrainian Scientific and Practical Conference. Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
«Shchyri. Spadshchyna»: Ukrainian Costumes Calendar. Kyiv, 2016.Retrieved from: http://www.bbc.com/ukrainian/features-38301568 (Last accessed 20.12.2016) [in Ukrainian].
Shpuliar, U. (2017).L`viv citizens Will Welcome Ethnic Teams from Different Countries of the World on the Independent.L`viv, 2017.Retrieved from: http://city-adm.lviv.ua/news/culture/241517-lvivian-z-dnem-nezalezhnosti-vitatymut-etnokolektyvy-z-riznykh-krain-svitu (Last accessed 04.10.2017) [in Ukrainian].
Project #Vytoky.18 October, 14:30.Mystetskyi Arsenal.Kyiv, 2015.Retrieved from:http://fashionweek.ua/en/news/ukrainian/proekt-vitoki. (Last accessed 04.10.2017) [in Ukrainian].
The Project «Shchyri» Was Presented in Kyiv. Kyiv, 2014. Retrieved from:https://vogue.ua/ua/article/culture/v-kieve-predstavili-proekt-shhiri4909.html (Last accessed 04.10.2017) [in Russian].
