« 2020. № 4 (154)

The Ethnology Notebooks. 2020. № 4 (154), 781—796

UDK 746.1:391](477.81-25)

DOI https://doi.org/10.15407/nz2020.04.781

RADYVYLIV WEAVING CENTER: RECONSTRUCTION OF DECOR TRADITIONS

NYKORAK Olena

  • ORCID ID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-0887-8929
  • Doctor in Art Studies, Professor,
  • Leading Researcher at Folk Art Department of Ethnology Institute
  • of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine,
  • 15, Svobody ave., 79000, Lviv, Ukraine,
  • Contacts: e-mail: olenanykorak@gmail.com

Abstract. Introduction. The art studies analysis of the current state Rivne Polissia weaving was done based on the example of the newly created Radyvyliv center. The most important achievements of the Center for Research and Revival of Volyn and the workshop of historical weaving «Volyn Legends» were revealed. Exact reconstructions of traditional clothing complexes, various local centers of Western Polissya and Volyn are created at the workshop. The creative team contribution to tradition`s revival and interpretation manufacturing unique on Polissya muslin fabrics and items from them were characterized.

Relevance of the chosen issue insufficient awareness of the creative achievements of this modern weaving center was deter­mined.

The object of the research is the Radyvyliv weaving center, and the subject — its manufacturing and creative achievements.

The paper purpose: to find out the ways of modern assimilation, comprehension and evolution of folk weaving tradition of Western Polissya and Volyn on the example of Radyvyliv center of Rivne region.

According to the aim, it is necessary to carry out thenext tasks: causes of appearance, particulars of formation and development the weaving center to be considered; symbiosis of tradition and innovation in the reproduced folk clothing complexes, the outlined area to be traced; the most important achievements of contemporary artists to be analyzed.

The novelty: for the first time the specifics of assimilation, reproduction and interpretation of the traditions folk clothing of Western Volyn and Polissya in the new conditions of cultural and artistic needs and aesthetic criteria are revealed. It is shown that the manufacturing of modern clothing sets based on authentic samples testifies to the conscious appeal of artists to ethnic sources.

A comparative-historical method and art studies analysis are used as research techniques of the work. The publications of Ukrainian art studies and ethnographers were the paper`s source base. Author`s field materials, gathered during the art studies expedition in 2010 to Rivne Polissia as well as artefacts, authentic clothing complexes` reconstructions of various local centers of Western Polissia and Volyn, made at the workshop «Volyn Legends» in Radyvyliv on Rivne Region were paper`s factual basis.

Keywords: Western Polissia, Volyn, Radyvyliv, center, weaving, decor, ornament, tradition.

Received 26.05.2020

REFERENCES

  • Lahoda, O.M. (2007). Art-graphic Costume Peculiarities in Fashion Design at the End of the XX — the Beginning of the XXI Century. Extended abstract of PhD`s thesis. Kharkiv [in Ukrainian].
  • Mateiko, K.I., & Sydorovych, S.I. (1963). Using Traditional Clothing Elements in the Modern Garment. Folk Art and Ethnography, 2, 10—20 [in Ukrainian].
  • Shcherbii, H. (1978). Ukrainian Traditional Clothing and Modern Modeling. Folk Art and Ethnography, 4, 79—81 [in Ukrainian].
  • Bilan, M.S., & Stelmashchuk, H.H. (2000). Ukrainian Clothing. Lviv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
  • Nykorak, O. (2004). The Ukrainian Traditional Folk Cloths of XIX and XX cc. (Part I). Interior Cloths (Based on Materials from Ukrainian Western Regions). Lviv: Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Zakharchuk-Chuhai, R.V. (2007). Folk Decorative Art of Ukrainian Polissia. Chornobyl Region. Lviv: Ethnology Institute of NAS of Ukraine [in Ukrainian].
  • Lokshuk, I.M. (2008). Artistic Weaving of Rivne Polissia of the XX Centuries (According to the Materials of Berezne District). Ukrainian Art Studies: Materials, Investigations, Reviews. Collected Scientific Works, 8, 130—133 [in Ukrainian].
  • Lokshuk, I.М. (2010). Traditional Weaving of Rivne Polissia: Cultural and Artistic Aspect. Decorative and Applying Art of Rivne Region (Pp. 7—21).Rivne: PPDM [in Ukrainian].
  • Lokshuk, I.M. (2014). Centers of Traditional Artistic Weaving of Rivne Polissia at the End of the XIX — the Beginning of the XXI Centuries. Bulletin of Kharkiv State Academy of Design and Arts, 7, 23—27 [in Ukrainian].
  • Kostiuk, L. (2010). Leading Center of «Polissia Muslin» — Krupove Village. Decorative and Applying Art of Rivne Region (Pp. 66—67). Rivne: PPDM [in Ukrainian].
  • Ukraiinets, А. (2006). Materials of the Fild Research of Za­richne District in the 80-90s of the XX Century. (Proceeding of the Local Lore Conference Dedicated to the 60th Anniversary of the Zarichne District Established and the 20th Anniversary of the Chornobyl NPP Accident: Western Polissia. History and Culture) (Vol. 2, pp. 120—128).Rivne: Vydavets Zel, O.M. [in Ukrainian].
  • Stelmashchuk, H.H. (2013). Ukrainian Folk Headdresses (2nd ed.) Lviv: Apriori [in Ukrainian].
  • Nykorak, О. (2009). Fabrics for Skirts of Western Polissia and Volyn. The Ethnology Notebooks, 1—2, 239—259 [in Ukrainian].
  • Ukraiinets, А. (2019). Traditional Clothing of Rivne Region (Vol. 1). Rivne: U Farvateri Istyn [in Ukrainian].
  • Ponomar, L.H. (2015). Folk Clothing of Right-Bank Polissia in the Middle of the XIX — the Middle of the XX Centuries. Historical and Ethnographic Atlas. Lexicon. Kyiv: Biznespolihraf [in Ukrainian].
  • Tyshkevych, R.K. (1996). Polissia`s Namitka in a Wedding Ceremony. The Scientific Issues, 1, 103—109 [in Ukrainian].
  • Tyshkevych, R.K. (2010). «Polissia Muslin» in the Consciousness of Local Inhabitants. Decorative and Applying Art of Rivne Region (Pp. 58—65). Rivne: PPDM [in Ukrainian].
  • Ukraiinets, А.M. (1996). Folk Clothing of the Inhabitants of Rivne Region (Brief Historical Review). The Scientific Issues, 1, 95—102 (Dedicated to the 100th Anniversary of Museum Work in Rivne Region). Rivne [in Ukrainian].
  • Ukraiinets, А. (2012). Manufactoring of Muslin Fabric in Rivne Region. Proceedings of the State Research Center for the Protection of Cultural Heritage from Technological Disasters, 1, 109—126 [in Ukrainian].
  • Orel, L. (1980). Polissia Muslin. Folk Art and Ethnography, 5, 91—93 [in Ukrainian].
  • Kuzina I., & Cherpak, L. (2010). Manufacturing Features of Muslin Fabrics in Dubrovytsia District at the Beginning of the XX Century. The Scientific Issues (Vol. VIII, pp. 189—194) [in Ukrainian].
  • Kostiuk, L., & Bukailo, U. (2016). Polissia`s Muslin Traditions. Rivne[in Ukrainian].
  • Nykorak, O. (2014). Folk Fabrics of Rivne Region at the Turn of the XX—XXI Centuries. Art Studies’14, 29—38 [in Ukrainian].
  • Dzobak, V. (2016). Some Aspects of the Reconstruction of «Muslin Clothing». P.O. «Center of Research and Revival of Volyn». (Proceedings of the Scientific-Practical Conference «Ukraine Crafts: History, Present and Perspective») (Pp. 249—253). Kyiv [in Ukrainian].
  • Lokshuk, I.М. (2017). Artistic Muslin Cloth: The Problem of Saving and Trying to Reproduce by Modern Masters. Bulletin of Lviv National Academy of Art (Issue 34, pp. 116—128). doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.1170574 [in Ukrainian].

Read»

Our authors
On bessarabian and moldavian ukrainians in the studies of historical ethnography
The article has thrown some light upon a sum of scientific findings got during XIX to XXI cc. in historio-ethnographic studies of Bessarabia and Moldavian Ukrainians. In the pre­sent paper has been given author’s answer to the problem of lacking progress as for the numerous themes concerning Ukrainians. State and achievements of the research-works in Ukrainians’ material and spiritual culture by the scientists of Moldavia and Ukraine through the years of independence has been exposed.
Read »

On field exploration of russian and belarusian ethnologists and etnolinguists in Ukrainian Polisia 1945—1980s
In the study based on a wide range of literary materials have been comprehensively characterised field research in Polisia of Ukraine, performed by Russian and Belarusian ethnologists during 1945—1980s as well as Moscow ethnolinguists and other researchers from ethnologic centres of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus in the course of realization of Ethnolinguistic Atlas of Polisia program. Particular attention has been paid to geography, methods, themes and research results of scientific projects.
Read »

Daily bread baking of ukrainians in the south-western ethnographical region at the late XIX to early XXI cc.
The paper has dealt with analytic study in prescriptions, signs, customs, methods, ways of selection, procurement and some peculiarities in usage of subsidiary means — water, firewood and leaves in bread baking. The final aim of the mentioned actions had been (and still is) selection of the means and ingredients fit, by their characteristics, for the backing of bread. The paper has demonstrated dependence of bread backing subsi­diary means criteria from the folk nutritional standards and world outlook stereotypes as well as from regional social and economic, natural and geographical factors and peculiarities of material culture.
Read »

Wax candle as ukrainian Christmas and epiphany ritualistic text
For the first time in native ethnology the article has brought some results of special study in sign functionality of a wax candle under the context of Ukrainian Christmas and Epiphany ritualistic text (ritualism of Christmas Eve, New Year, Epiphany Eve and Feast of Epiphany). The study has stated extremely high semiotic position of a wax candle as projection of Sun, mediator between the spheres of sacral and prophane elements, symbolic analogue of human existence, apotropy, cultural symbol re-establishing borders of acculturated space.
Read »